Maintenance Articles
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Milgard Windows informed me that our HOA could qualify for cash and tax incentives through Energy Trust of Oregon and Oregon Department of Energy. If homeowners vote to have the homeowner association pay for the replacement, the HOA can be reimbursed for up to 50% of the cost of the entire project. (The amount of the reimbursement is based on energy efficiency improvement. For example, the reimbursement for upgrading single pane aluminum windows is more than upgrading double pane aluminum windows.) The beauty of this program is not only the increased unit market values, energy cost savings and improved comfort level, but cash back from this program.

We, of course, got competitive bids for the window installation job. One thing we discovered in that process is that the larger contractors had the ability to negotiate and buy windows directly from the manufacturer. We originally had thought smaller contractors had less overhead and would be cheaper but the discounts the larger contractors were able to get actually made them cheaper.

HOAs that are non-profit corporations don't benefit from the tax credits the state offers, however, there is a program called "Pass Through Option" which matches the HOA with a company that is willing to purchase tax credits for a discount. In a nutshell, between the program reimbursement and the tax credit sale, we saved 35% of the total project cost.

We were also able to negotiate with Milgard Windows and Danners Home Renovation (contractor that installed the windows) to work with us over a year to accommodate our budget.

We've had an excellent experience with our window project. I do admit that it took a lot of phone calls to get the 75% vote that was required in our By-Laws. But it was worth the effort. And the funny thing is that we discovered the state reimbursement program after the owners approved the project. So, we now have $30,000 extra money we are going to use to improve our landscaping. Talk about a happy happenstance!

I have nothing but wonderful things to say about Gail Hommel at Milgard Windows, Phone 503.682.5271 and Derek Holgate at Danners Home Renovation, Phone 503.236.4250. They've done an excellent job on our project and I would highly recommend them to all Oregon HOAs. Elena Combes - Boeckman Creek Condominium

This true life experience demonstrates one of the advantages that HOA living has: group buying power. This community understood that advantage and managed to make a great deal unbelievably better. It is this "out of the box" thinking that can make every HOA much more than the sum of its parts.

While this story only deals with window replacement, there are other options for insulation, heating system and water heating system upgrades. Like all tax funded programs, these are limited time offers so if your HOA is in need of these kinds of upgrades, the sooner you apply, the more likely you are to reap the rewards. For details on Oregon energy conservation programs, see Energy Trust of Oregon at Phone 866.368.7878 or online at www.energytrust.org

Many states have similar energy conservation programs. With a bit of investigating and persistence, your HOA may discover gold waiting to be mined. Do you have a money saving homeowner association experience to share? Email info@regenesis.net.   BACK

Is You Is?
The curious expression "Is you is or is you ain’t?" has a number of meanings but one is "are you really what you appear to be?" Appearances can often be deceiving and none is more prone to deception than construction contracting. Since most HOA boards possess little knowledge of how contract jobs should come together, a contractor with an engaging personality and a cheap bid can be a recipe for disaster.

Choosing the right contractor for your HOA renovation work takes time, but in the long run, the more care that’s taken, the less chance of shoddy work, cost overruns and legal entanglements.

Getting references is not only a good idea, but absolutely necessary to discovering your contractor candidates’ true natures. Get at least three references from each that demonstrate the contractor’s ability to do comparable work with a quality result. Those references should include location, contact name and phone number. Visit each reference location to inspect the work and discuss the experience with the contact. Here are key questions to ask:

1. Were you able to communicate effectively with the contractor?
2. Were all change orders done in writing?
3. Was the job site picked up each day?
4. Were you pleased with the quality of work?
5. Did the crew show up on time?
6. Was the job completed on schedule?
7. Did final costs match your expectations?
8. Were follow up repairs done quickly?
9. Would you use the contractor again?

Many states have an agency devoted to contractor licensing and oversight. Check with that agency for complaints against your contractors, current licensing status and state required insurance. This can usually be done online.

Once you have narrowed down the field and are reviewing contract proposals, remember that the proposal is written for the benefit of the contractor and few have the kinds of provisions that a balanced agreement should have including

1. Evidence of contractor insurance (liability, workers compensation)
2. Set date for job completion
3. Penalty for not completing work on schedule
4. Provide lien waivers in exchange for payment
5.Progress payments for work completed (only if job is extended and expensive)

Take the time to screen your contractors. Make sure you only pick the "is you is" candidate and not the "is you ain’ts". For more, see Contractor Issues.  BACK

Cool Pool Tools
Memorial Day marks the start of pool season for many homeowner associations. Unfortunately, this is also the riskiest time of year for pool drownings. According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, 250 children die annually from private pool drownings and another 2600 are hospitalized. A few seconds lapse in parental supervision is responsible most of the time. How can these tragedies be avoided? Practice an approach called "layers of protection":

FABULOUS FENCING Pool fences are by far the most effective deterrent against drowning but must be properly designed. Fences should be at least four feet high and designed to be "non climbable". With chain link fencing, this means the mesh opening should be 1¼" or less, too small for a toddler to get a toe hold on. With iron fences, spacing between vertical bars can be no more than 4". Horizontal supports must be mounted facing the pool and spaced greater then 45" apart.

The weakest link in all fencing is the gate. Gates must be self-closing and self-latching so they slam shut if inadvertently left open. Moreover, gate latches should be mounted at least 54 inches off the ground and have child-proof release mechanisms. Baby fencing, a secondary fence installed closer to the pool’s edge, is also an option where the fence encloses the yard but not the pool. Baby fencing may keep young children out of harms way but won't work for toddlers that climb. Still, it adds yet another layer to your protection scheme.

If aesthetics are a concern, think about installing black fencing. With a little landscaping, black fencing is practically invisible. If maintenance is a concern, invest in vinyl fencing. It's more costly but lasts a long time and needs virtually no maintenance.

COOL COVERS Pool covers provide the next layer of protection. There are several choices. Vinyl covers held down with weights may keep the pool clean - but these covers are unsafe if children fall in and get trapped inside. A better choice is a self-draining mesh cover with a spring-based fastening system that disappears when the cover is not in use, these covers are stretched taut across the pool and can support the weight of a child plus several rescuers. Mesh covers cost about $1500 and support up to 3500 pounds.

AWESOME ALARMS Install alarms on doors leading to the pool. If the door is opened without depressing a child-proof bypass button, the alarm sounds within 7 seconds and stays on until disabled. The alarm is also effective in preventing adults from leaving a door open. If a door is left open for more then 10 seconds, even after pressing the bypass button, it rings again. Door alarms are an inexpensive way to make sure everyone thinks about pool safety.

So there are three fabulous, cool and awesome layers of protection to keep your pool safe. Don’t be a fool. Install these cool pool tools and you’ll rule.  BACK

Asphalt 101b
Your article Asphalt 101 gave a very good layman’s description of asphalt paving. But you omitted a vital component of asphalt: air voids. Compacted asphalt should have a density of 92%-94% for closed graded (water tight) pavement. Open graded is less dense allowing air voids to permit drainage through the pavement commonly found on roads in wet environments like Oregon.

Without the 6%-8% air voids, the "kneading" you described by vehicle use would create a messy slick surface on hot days, a condition known as "bleeding". It is often visible at stop lights and at the end of freeway off ramps where vehicle braking forces compact the pavement further. The most common cause of this is poor mix design with too much asphalt cement.

You mentioned coal tar as a preferred surface coating. Coal tar has traditionally been a product used primarily in the Eastern US. Asphalt emulsion is the coating of choice in the West and is becoming more favorable back east as well. Coal tar is nasty stuff and requires safety precautions by crews applying the product. Coal tar does have a specific superiority over asphalt emulsion in that it is resistant to petroleum products. That is why it is used where aircraft fueling takes place.

Asphalt emulsion used for sealcoating is produced by asphalt plants and requires 5%-20% water added depending on air temperatures and is easy to use. It is the coating of choice for HOA parking lots due to cost and ease of application.

Feel free to use me as your "insider". I'm a humble guy, but I do know everything about asphalt. Besides, it's nice to be needed (or in the case of asphalt, kneaded).

Contributed by Randy Dumont, a former asphalt paving contractor.  BACK

Grow Low H2O Plants
One of the great challenges most homeowner associations experience is how to reduce landscape maintenance and water costs. Xeriscaping is a method of combining attractive, pest resistant and low maintenance native plants in a way that conserves water. It is based on seven basic horticultural principles:

1. Plan & Design: Group like water need plants. Consider existing vegetation, topography and the intended use. Use native species to reduce adaption problems. Eliminate runoff conditions. Decide plants placement based on visual impact and sun/shade needs.
2. Evaluate & Improve Soil: Soil analysis provides information for plant selection and soil amendments which help soil absorb and store water. Soil amendments such as peat moss or compost improve root development, water penetration and retention.
3. Reduce Turf: Turf should be considered a design element rather than the whole landscape. Reduce or eliminate turf areas, and locating them so that they may be watered more efficiently.
4. Use Appropriate Plants: While most plants have a place in Xeriscape, using low water need plants that maximizes water conservation.
5. Install Efficient Irrigation: Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation. Adjust according to seasonal needs and the weather. Irrigate for plant condition, not for schedule. New plants require additional irrigation for up to three years.
6. Use Organic Mulch: Mulch reduces evaporation, weed growth, erosion and soil temperature fluctuations. Proper mulch application is a key to a successful Xeriscape. Organic mulches like wood chips or bark are best.
7. Maintain Appropriately & Consistently: Properly pruned, weeded and fertilized plants require less water and also look nicer. A landscape adapted to the environment will require less maintenance, less fertilizer and reduce the use of pesticides.

So, how low can your H20 go? Consult with a professional landscape design architect to discover the wonderful options for beautifying and reducing costs at the same time. You grow girl (or boy)! For more, see Specifications-Landscaping.  BACK

Green House Checklist
There is much talk of green construction. What exactly constitutes a "green" house? The following checklist will help identify features that produce a healthier, high-performance home that costs less to operate and has fewer negative environmental impacts:

Location: Green homes are not built on environmentally sensitive sites like prime farmland, wetlands and endangered species habitats. The greenest development sites are "in-fill" properties like former parking lots, rail yards, shopping malls and factories. Look for compact development where the average housing density is at least six units per acre. The home should also be within easy walking distance of public transportation to reduce the need for cars. A green home should also be within walking or biking distance of parks, schools, and stores.

Size: No matter how many green building elements go into a home, a 5,000 square foot green home still consumes many more natural resources than a 2,000 square foot green home. The larger home will also require more heating, air conditioning and lighting. Smaller is greener.

Building Design:
Natural Light. The home should be oriented on its site to bring abundant natural daylight into the interior to reduce lighting requirements and to take advantage of any prevailing breezes. Windows, clerestories, skylights, mirrors, reflective materials and other strategies should be used to bring daylight to the interior of the house.

Shading. The exterior should have devices like sunshades, canopies, green screens and, best of all, trees, particularly on the southern and western facades and over windows and doors, to block hot summer sun.

Heat Gain/Loss. Dual-glaze windows reduce heat gain in summer and heat loss during cold winter months.

Roof Reflectivity. The roof should be a light-colored, heat-reflecting An Energy Star rated roof, or a green (landscaped) roof reduce heat absorption.

Green Building Materials: A green home will have been constructed or renovated with

Non-toxic Building Materials & Furnishings like low- and zero-VOC (volatile organic compound) paints and sealants.

Strawboard for the sub-flooring.

Renewable Wood Products like bamboo or hardwoods certified by the Forest Stewardship Council www.fscus.org

Salvaged Materials like kitchen tiles and materials with significant recycled content.

Non-Toxic Insulation derived from materials like soybean or cotton, with a high R (heat resistance) factor in a home’s walls and roof will help prevent cool air leakage in the summer and warm air leakage in the winter.

Energy Efficient Windows & Doors should seal their openings tightly to avoid heat gain in summer and heat loss in winter.

Energy Star Rated Lighting, Heating, Cooling & Water Heating Systems and Appliances.

Renewable Energy Generation like photovoltaic systems.

Water Efficient irrigation system, kitchen and bathroom fixtures, rainwater collection and storage system (particularly in dry climates).

Indoor Environmental Quality. Natural daylight should reach at least 75% of the home’s interior. Natural ventilation via building orientation, operable windows, fans, wind chimneys and other strategies should bring plentiful fresh air inside the house. The HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) system should filter all incoming air and vent stale air outside. The garage should not have any air handling equipment or return ducts and should have an exhaust fan to prevent carbon monoxide and other fumes from entering the living space.

Shade/Native Landscaping. Use vine covered green screens, large canopy trees and other landscaping to shade exterior walls, driveway, patio and other "hardscape" to minimize heat islands. Yards should be landscaped with drought and pest tolerant native species rather than water-guzzling plants and grass.

While some of these green features are relatively expensive (like solar panels), many are quite cost competitive and merely a matter of informed and conscious decision making. Many of these green alternatives can be justified based on their return on investment. If you can get a 3-10 year payback based on energy savings, why not do it? Join the revolution. Save energy and save money! Go Green!

Information from the U.S. Green Building Council www.uscbg.org   BACK

Good Looking Hood
One of the advantages of a homeowner association is to keep the hood looking good by enforcing architectural and design standards. These appearance standards are designed to protect the HOA members’ property values. The theory is that if all homes follow the same basic theme, the average home buyer will be willing to pay more.

Non-HOA subdivisions have appearance standards too, but only a civil lawsuit can stop someone determined to violate them. Since most neighbors hate confrontation, appearance standards usually go by the wayside opening the door to the things like RVs parked along side the house, tarped "classic" cars and eye wincing paint colors. Thus, the need for appearance standards and the enforcement thereof.

The governing documents usually outline the appearance standards when they are very strict but often say little when they’re not. They may define the standards but not the enforcement method. leaving the Board in an awkward position when confronted with multiple appearance "challenges". This is a great topic for the Resolution Process. Resolutions are board policies that deal with complex issues like collection of money, pets, parking and appearance standards. Resolutions provide a framework to deal with them effectively. By the way, resolutions cannot amend or change the meaning of the governing documents, only expand on the authority. Amending the governing documents requires an appropriate vote of the homeowners.

Appearances do count and it’s up to the board to watch dog what happens in the community. Don’t wake up one day and ask "Where am I and why am I in this handbasket?" Protect your HOA appearances by keeping the hood looking good. BACK

Old Ben Was Right
One of the earliest advocates of preventive maintenance was Ben Franklin. He wisely wrote: "A little neglect may breed mischief...for want of a nail, the shoe was lost; for want of a shoe the horse was lost..." Old Ben nailed what happens when relatively small repairs. Little things have major impact on homeowner association assets. For example, a small lack of flashing can lead to major dryrot, structural problems and major expense. Ka-CHING!

Preventive maintenance is critical to managing an HOA’s assets. When executed properly, it extends the useful life of buildings, grounds and equipment. Stretching out useful lives means stretching member contributions and reducing downtime from component failures. Preventive maintenance involves fixing something before it breaks. Here are five objectives for a every preventive maintenance program:

1. To perform maintenance that keeps the property safe and functioning.
2. To promote the most effective and efficient use of resources.
3. To estimate the human resources needed for proper operation and maintenance.
4. To determine long range funding requirements and project scheduling.
5. To evaluate the effectiveness of the maintenance effort.

Preventive maintenance programs are common with elevators, HVAC and pool equipment, usually because there is a service contract. Other components, like paving, roofing, decks and paint require monitoring and planning.

Functional obsolescence is also a legitimate concern. Lack of parts, improvements in efficiency, computerization and changes in fire and building code can make equipment obsolete even though it’s working just as designed. This is particularly applicable to elevators, boilers, pumps and HVAC. Buying new equipment is often a great investment in reduced operating costs. For example, by replacing all common area lighting with compact fluorescent bulbs, the light level will be significantly increased, the energy consumption reduced by 70% and the useful life of each bulb extended by 10-15 times thereby saving an enormous amount of labor costs. Within 12-18 months, the cost will be recouped in energy savings and then, it’s money in the bank.

So, what is the best way to address major preventive maintenance? Two words: Reserve Study. A Reserve Study identifies all the significant components that the HOA is responsible to maintain, assesses current condition, cost of repair and replacement and charts a 30 year maintenance plan to keep the components in their best condition.

The Reserve Study can provide for cyclical preventive maintenance so components achieve their optimal lives. For example If cracks, minor repairs and sealcoating are performed at least every five years on asphalt paving, major repairs will not be required for 20-30 years. If this relatively inexpensive preventive maintenance is not done, significant and costly major repairs will be required much sooner. Pay a little to save a lot.

A Reserve Study will also guide the board how to systematically accumulate funds without special assessments. A full funding plan will have all owners contribute a fair share relating to the benefits received. A fair contribution plan means no one will get a better deal than anyone else and the money will be there when needed. The Reserve Study is absolutely the best way to prepare for a future which will certainly come to pass.

Remember Old Ben’s nail analogy. Little things have a way of causing great things to happen. But rather than fail in the little things, plan for them and hit this nail right on the head. BACK

What, Where & Why of Exterior Coatings
Properly protecting a homeowner association’s building envelope is an ongoing challenge. The type of exterior product you have directly affects the kind of coating you should use. The most common exteriors include wood, composite (wood fibers, binders and glue) and cement siding, CMU (Concrete Masonry Unit) and stucco. CMU comes in various shapes, sizes and profiles like brick, block and fluted block, to name a few.

There a number of coatings commonly used to protect building exteriors:

Elastomerics. This type of coating expands and contracts. It helps protect mortar joint cracks, prevents water absorption in mortar and protects hairline cracks in stucco. Elastomeric coatings are most commonly a combination of 50% solids and 50% water. Properly applied, the product has 400% elongation. This means it can stretch and span hairline cracks and keep the water on the exterior where it belongs. Larger cracks require additional treatment and/or reinforcement.

Elastomeric can bubble and sag from not being able to "breath". The culprit can be open cracks, pin-holes in the membrane, missing caulking or improper flashing nearby. When water gets trapped behind the membrane, it delaminates the membrane from the surface below and appears as bubbles and sags.

ExteriorAcrylic Paint. If the building is not cracked or leaking and you want to freshen up the appearance, quality acrylic paints work well. They come in a variety of sheens: flat, eggshell, semi-gloss and high gloss. The higher the sheen, the more expensive the product and longevity. While gloss paint is not be very fashionable, it is easier to clean than flat and eggshell sheens. Exterior acrylics have some flexibility however have limited elongation characteristics. They are an excellent choice for composite, wood or cement siding. Primer is very important when using real wood siding. Primer is designed to penetrate and provide a bonding surface for the finish coat of acrylic paint. In particular, use the correct primer for cedar or redwood siding to avoid tannic acid bleed.

Clear Treatments and Water Repellents. Clear treatments help protect the natural color of the product to which it is applied and helps resist water absorption that will damage mortar. There are excellent choices suitable for maintenance and restoration of concrete, brick, block and natural stone. Talk to the product manufacturer’s most knowledgeable and experienced representative to get the product best suited for your application.

There are numerous types and qualities of exterior coatings. It’s imperative that you use only the highest quality coating suitable for your building exterior and location.    John Lamb - LCI Consultants  BACK

Ahead of the Game
Deferring maintenance of HOA common elements has negative and lasting effects. While postponing maintenance may seem to be a money-saving technique, the consequences are usually a much higher cost.

Painting is one of the largest elements of routine common area maintenance for many associations. If ignored, a poorly maintained paint finish will lead to extensive costs for the homeowner association at the time such upkeep is eventually completed. The paint on the exterior of any building is a very important component of any maintenance plan. Wood trim should be painted every 3-4 years. The complete painting of buildings should be done every 6-8 years.

Drainage. Rain gutters are an important component of the common area which need twice annual cleaning (more often where there is heavy tree coverage) to help insure proper water run-off. Clogged and overflowing gutters cause premature trim and siding rot.

Light fixtures and poles need to be serviced regularly. Salt air, in particular, can rapidly deteriorate and short-circuit light fixtures.

Concrete sidewalks and slabs to be inspected annually for cracks and raised areas, as well as degradation of the surface. Raised areas create a trip hazard which can be corrected by grinding or removal and replacement.

Asphalt needs to be repaired and seal coated every 3-5 years to properly protect it so it will achieve its maximum useful life of 25-30 years.

Roofs need to be part of Spring and Fall maintenance plan. They need to be inspected and serviced by a qualified roofing maintenance contractor.

Recreation Areas. Playground equipment should be inspected and maintained frequently to ensure child safety.

Directional Signage should be in good repair and easily readable in order to assist emergency response services like police, fire and pizza delivery . Directories with name and addresses also facilitate emergency response. The directory should be regularly updated for accuracy

Reserve Study. Completing and annually updating a Reserve Study will help the board to schedule, budget and properly maintain the common elements. It is highly recommended that the study be done and updated by experienced professionals like PRA (Professional Reserve Analysts) members of the Association of Professional Analysts (see www.apra-usa.com for a directory PRA members).

Use these hints to help craft your own Preventive Maintenance Plan. Deferring maintenance is a sucker bet that will come back to bite. Stay ahead of the game.

Excerpts from an article by Association Times.    BACK