Maintenance Articles
Articles may be reprinted in their entirety but must include:
"Used with permission from Regenesis.net"

To create a strong branch structure. During the first several years after a tree is planted, it can be easily pruned to correct poor form. Prune to give proper branch spacing and strong attachments. Eliminate double leaders to create a strong single leader trunk. This approach prevents future problems and trees are less susceptible to storm damage.

To reduce or eliminate hazards. Limbs can unexpectedly fall, damaging property and harming people. Prune to remove deadwood, broken branches or weakly attached branches to reduce hazard potential. Thin large trees like Douglas Fir to reduce wind resistance.

To control growth and size. Prune to keep fast growing trees contained within a certain landscape footprint.

To create aesthetically pleasing landscapes. Pruned trees reveal their unique branch structure, yet retain their natural shape.

To correct improper pruning or storm damage. Create a new canopy and branch structure on a previously topped or storm damaged tree by selective pruning and crown thinning. This may require multiple pruning visits over several years to restore the natural crown shape.

To reduce disease. Remove diseased parts to prevent further infection and improve looks. Reduce disease infection by increasing air circulation and light penetration by thinning branches and foliage.

To enhance fruit production. Prune fruit trees to keep the fruit production at a reachable height.

When it comes to trees, prune is the name of the tune. Do some soon.   BACK

Flap Over Flags
For reasons known only to those embroiled in the dispute, flags and flagpoles seem to bring out passion in people. Flags evoke patriotism (Old Glory), defiance (Stars & Bars), pride (college), decoration (fall, spring), respect for the dead (half mast), warning (storms) and mirth (cocktail hour). There are numerous attitudes and messages flags can invoke and there seems to be no end to the options.

To the flag flyer, the right of free expression means the right to wave a flag. Homeowner associations generally have the right to control the architectural and design of the community and often restrict flags and flagpoles. This causes certain residents and the HOA to clash at times. But there is more to flags and flagpoles than the look.

Flags not only wave, they flap. And when they flap, they snap. Flagpoles, even when flags aren’t being flown, use a rope to raise and lower the flag. Those ropes often hang loose. When the wind picks up, the ropes clatter against the pole. All this snapping and clattering can disturb the neighbors. So the flag controversy often involves noise complaints as often as the right to free speech.

Fortunately, American ingenuity and technology has come up with a solution to the look and noise issues. A number of companies now offer telescoping flagpoles which recess into the ground. See www.uncommonusa.com  These installations are permanent yet permit the pole to be hidden when not in use. The telescoping feature also eliminates the rope feature since the flag is hooked to the top section of the pole and then the telescoping feature raises it. Many have a rotating collar which allows the flag to swivel with wind direction and not get wrapped around the pole.

Since flying flags is a protected activity in many states (and even if it isn’t, people that want to do it generally won’t take "no" for an answer), the HOA should try to find a way to accommodate the flag wavers. The telescoping flagpole addresses a number of the concerns. Why not consider including it as part of the policy?   BACK

Trips & Slips
Tripping and slipping can involve both embarrassment and serious injury. The ubiquitous banana peel slip always gets a chuckle but too often the gravity (both the law and seriousness) of the situation can cause real and lasting injury. Then there is the issue of blame. In most of the world, the policy of Always Look Down (ALD) is essential to avoid injury. In the Third World, if you trip or slip, you have no one to blame but yourself (by UN Resolution, I believe). But in the Land O’ Plenty (of lawyers and insurance), the blame often gets hung on the homeowner association.

HOAs have the duty to maintain trip and slip-free conditions in the common area. These conditions can be triggered by a number of causes:

1. Weather (snow and ice)
2. Landscape Related (overgrown bushes, moss, tree roots)
3. Poor Construction (lack of handrails, improper material and design)
4. Mechanical Failures (car oil leaks)
5. Normal wear and tear (raised or sunken slabs, potholes, etc.).

The following conditions create conditions ripe for trip and slip::

1. Raised edges over 3/8 inches. Driveways, patios, sidewalks and parking lots crack and move, sometime up and sometimes down. Tree roots or inadequate compaction are usually the culprits. Raised concrete can often be ground down without having to replace it. Sometimes it requires removal and replacement.
2. Step of unusual height, like 3-4 inches. Normal steps are 6-8 inches tall. These kind of steps benefit from yellow edges which can be easily seen.
3. Walkway slopes that are slippery when wet, icy or mossy. Consider installing non-skid surfaces.
4. Inadequate lighting (too dim, too few fixtures, improper placement). Increase lumen output, add or move fixtures.
5. Overgrown landscaping that conceals or overshadows hazards. Prune bushes and trees to allow light through.
6. Lack of stairway handrails. Install on both sides.
7. Oil spots in the parking areas. Pressure wash or use oil absorbing material to remove.
8. Potholes. Fill them to level.
9. Naturally slick surfaces (like polished marble in entry foyers)
10. Lack of non-skid surfaces where appropriate (stairs, entries, slopes). Add skid resistance runners, carpet or adhesive strips. Replace slick material with skid resistant materials like wood stair treads with concrete.

Regardless of the cause, the HOA should have a budget and plan to deal with slip and trip hazards before someone and his lawyer discover them and the HOA’s liability insurance policy. The plan to detect and correct should be consistent and adequate. The program should be even more aggressive in HOAs with senior residents whose injuries are likely to be more serious.

So the next time you hear, "Have a nice trip" or "See you next fall", make sure they refer to holiday travel plans and not a trip or slip.    BACK

Fluorescent Bulb Recycling
Homeowner associations often use fluorescent lighting and for very good reasons. They save energy and last five to ten times longer than incandescent bulbs. But while they work well, they also use substances that can be toxic to the environment, such as mercury.

Mercury is a naturally occurring chemical and is used extensively in a wide range of consumer products. Unfortunately, it can harm brain development and function. Pregnant women, unborn babies or small children are at the greatest risk.

Fluorescent bulbs contain small amounts of mercury to function properly. Handling these bulbs is not dangerous, since the mercury is completely locked inside the bulb. However, when they break, as they will when thrown into dumpsters, compacted by garbage trucks or buried in landfills, their mercury is released. With mercury, it only takes a little amount to cause a lot of harm. For example, it only takes 25 standard fluorescent tubes to make all the fish in a 20-acre lake unsafe to eat!

Although it is counterintuitive, fluorescents bulbs actually help keep mercury out of the environment. Much of the US’s electricity is produced by coal-burning power plants that release mercury as part of their operations. Incandescent bulbs need four times as much electricity to produce the same amount of light, which means the increase coal burning and more mercury enters the environment.

That said, proper disposal of spent fluorescent bulbs will help even more. To recycle them, the bulbs must be unbroken so that their mercury is contained. Recyclers have a variety of systems for storing and recycling spent bulbs. The recycler may either pick up spent bulbs or have you mail them. At the recycling facility, machinery breaks the bulbs in a vacuum and separates out glass, metal and mercury which all can be recycled into new bulbs. This service is not free. But while recycling is an added cost, it is small and represents only 1-2% of the bulb’s purchase price and energy cost!

Pop Quiz: How many aerospace engineers does it take to change a fluorescent light bulb? Answer: None. It doesn't take a rocket scientist. If your HOA (or business) uses fluorescent bulbs, do the "light" thing and recycle.

To learn more about this topics, visit www.nwlamprecycle.org    BACK

Too Cool Roofing
While rain and snow always find a homeowner association roof’s weakest links, solar effects also have a profound impact on a roof’s longevity and performance. When it comes to flat roofs, "Cool Roof" technology uses reflective roofing materials to improve useful life, reduce solar heat and increase energy savings. Cool Roofs normally stay up to 50-60 degrees F cooler at peak times than dark roofing. Cooler roofs mean less building cooling and related maintenance expense.

EPDM Roofing Systems. Durability, design versatility and installation ease are among the many reasons EPDM is the most popular material for both new and re-roof low-slope roofing applications. Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer Roofing Systems are based on a high-performance synthetic rubber compound that provides outstanding weathering characteristics in climates worldwide.

SBS Modified Bitumen Roofing Systems. These systems combine exceptional elongation and fatigue resistance properties with the strength of a glass-reinforced polyester mat. Available in white and other reflective granule surface colors, SBS membranes may be installed by heat welding, hot asphalt, cold-applied adhesive, mechanical attachment or as part of a self-adhered system.

If your flat roof is due for a makeover, take the time to investigate the many advantages of Cool Roof technology. Reducing heat build up extends roofing life and reduces maintenance. Too cool!     BACK

Irrigation Water Tips
With public water and sewer costs on the rise, it behooves every homeowner association to carefully manage common water usage for landscaping purposes. Here are a number of useful tips:

Have the irrigation system audited. Some water providers will conduct an irrigation audit for free or at minimal cost. If not, there are irrigation auditors in your area. The auditor should carefully examine and test the irrigation system, create a report detailing the condition of the system and a list of recommended repairs and improvements. Some auditors also will provide an irrigation schedule showing how often and how long to water each month of the year. With the audit in hand, get quotes for repairs and improvements and schedule them.

Adjust the irrigation controller for seasonal changes. Most controllers even have a key that makes changing the time quick and painless. Put a reminder on the calendar to perform this monthly.

Run the irrigation system during the morning hours. Less water is lost to evaporation when the temperature is cooler, plus the wind generally blows less in the mornings. Watering in the evenings can lead to turf and plant disease problems because the water sits on the plants all night.

Program sprinklers for three short cycles rather than a single cycle. If you normally water for 15 minutes, instead, water for 4 minutes, wait 30 minutes for it to soak in, then water another 4 minutes, wait again and then water another 4 minutes for a total of 12 minutes. The reason cycling works well is that sprinklers apply water much faster than it can actually soak into the ground. So after about 5 minutes of running, most of the water begins to build up on top of the soil and then it just runs off into the gutter or to a low spot in the yard. Cycling the irrigation gives the water time to soak into the ground and reduces water run-off, it also will help reduce the wet spots in the lawn where lawn diseases get started.

Make sure tall grass, ground covers or shrubs are not blocking sprinklers. Water from sprinklers heads that pop-up less than 3 inches high is often deflected by tall grass around the sprinkler head. The industry standard for lawn sprinkler heads is a pop-up height of 4 inches or more. Turn on the sprinklers right before the next time the lawn is scheduled to be mowed and see if the grass around the heads is blocking the spray. If it is, consider replacing the sprinkler heads with a model that pops up higher.

Shrubs and groundcover that have grown since the sprinkler system was installed may also block the spray of sprinklers. Trim the shrubs around the heads so that the spray is not blocked. In many cases it is okay for the water to spray into the side of the shrubs. Shrub roots will often grow out to where the water is. Consider changing the sprinklers in shrub areas to a drip system, which will use even less water.

Relocate sprinklers so that they are between 4-6" from the edge of sidewalks, curbs, patios, etc. in lawn areas. In shrub areas, they can often be 12" from the edge, especially with a mature landscape. This will reduce the amount of spray onto the paved surface and will not create a dry area along the edge of the lawn. It will also reduce the amount of damage that trimmers cause to the sprinkler heads. Use flexible riser pipes which allows the sprinklers to move if a car or heavy lawn mower hits them without breaking a pipe or the sprinkler.

Fix leaking valves. Look for water running onto sidewalks or over curbs after the sprinkler system is turned off. If water flows constantly when the sprinkler system is off there is often algae growing on the cement or ground that indicates that a valve is not fully closing. Clean or replace the valve.

Fix low head drainage. Do the sprinklers spit and spew air mixed with water for a short period each time they are turned on? This is caused by "low head drainage" which occurs when the sprinkler system has been installed on a sloped area. After the sprinklers are turned off, the water in the pipes drains out through the lowest sprinkler heads and is replaced by air. The water that drains out often flows into the gutter or creates a muddy area around the lowest sprinkler head or drip emitter. Then the air is forced out the next time the sprinklers run which puts stress on the sprinklers and pipes.

Install a Smart controller. A Smart controller does the work of periodically adjusting the sprinkler operating times for you. It changes the run times to reflect the current water needs of the plants.

Install a rain sensor. A rain sensor detects measurable rainfall and turns off the automatic irrigation valves.

Install a filter on the irrigation system. Most valve and sprinkler malfunctions result from contaminants in the water supply like grains of sand, pipe scale or small fresh-water snails which are common in many public water systems. Installing a simple screen filter before the irrigation valves will greatly reduce breakdowns and save water.

Winterize the system before freezing weather damages pipes and valves.

Switch to newer sprinkler heads. Small stream-rotor nozzles work well for old or poorly designed systems. They achieve a greater radius than was possible with the old style nozzles using less water.

Switch to drip irrigation for watering shrubs. Drip irrigation is about 20% more water efficient than sprinklers.

Use alternative irrigation water sources. Water from ponds, wells and rainwater can all be viable alternatives if the source is adequate. Taking water from streams requires special use permits. Drilling a well also requires a permit. If you have access to alternative water sources, you must create a pump, filtration and plumbing system to manage it. Vendors that specialize in such systems can provide a cost-benefit analysis to help in the decision process.

Sprinkler head pressure regulators. Pressure regulators save water by reducing the water pressure at the sprinkler head nozzle. If too much water pressure is present, the sprinklers tend to create too much mist and give uneven coverage resulting in water waste. In order for the pressure regulators to work you must have excessive pressure. If you do not have excess pressure, the pressure regulators may actually harm your system's performance. A typical use of pressure regulating sprinkler heads is for a valve circuit on a steep hillside. In this situation, the sprinklers at the bottom of the hill will have excessive pressure due to the effect of gravity on the water pressure. Using pressure regulating sprinklers on these lower sprinkler heads would cause them to perform better. If the highest sprinkler is not more than 6 feet higher than the lowest sprinkler on the same valve circuit, pressure regulating sprinklers will not be of much help.

Automated emergency shut-off devices. These devices automatically shut off the water when the irrigation system breaks. They are often used on irrigation systems where a failure could cause serious damage or where a leak might go undetected for days, such as a vacation home or remote location.

Separate plants into hydro-zones. A hydro-zone is an area where all the plants use more or less the same amount of water and have the same sun and wind exposure. For example, lawn in the sun would be one hydro-zone, the lawn in shaded areas would be another hydro-zone, lawn in the sun on a windy hill-top would be yet another hydro-zone. This allows you to water each hydro-zone for just the right time to apply the water needed by the plants without over-watering.    BACK

Stay Ahead of the Curve
Deferring maintenance in a homeowner association has negative and lasting effects. While postponing maintenance may seem to be a money-saving technique, the consequences are usually a much higher cost over time.

Painting is one of the largest elements of routine common area maintenance for many HOAs. Poorly maintained paint will fail prematurely. Touchup should be done annually. Wood trim should be painted every 3-4 years. The complete painting of buildings should be done every 6-8 years.

Drainage. Rain gutters are an important component which need twice annual cleaning (more often where there is heavy tree coverage) to help insure proper water run-off. Clogged and overflowing gutters cause premature trim and siding rot.

Light fixtures and poles need to be serviced regularly. Salt air, in particular, can rapidly deteriorate and short-circuit light fixtures.

Concrete sidewalks and slabs need to be inspected annually for cracks and raised areas, as well as degradation of the surface. Raised areas create a trip hazard which can be corrected by grinding or removal and replacement.

Asphalt needs to be repaired and seal coated every 3-5 years to properly protect it so it will achieve its maximum useful life of 25-30 years.

Roofs need to be part of a Spring and Fall maintenance plan. They need to be inspected, repaired and cleaned by a qualified roofing maintenance contractor.

Roof Gutters & Downspouts should be cleaned at least twice a year, more often in "hotspots". Failure to do this causes backups and overflow that damages paint, siding and landscaping.

Recreation Areas. Playground equipment should be inspected and maintained to ensure child safety.

Directional Signage should be in good repair and easily readable in order to assist emergency response services like police, fire and pizza delivery (joke). Directories with name and addresses also facilitate emergency response. The directory should be regularly updated for accuracy.

Reserve Study. This is a 30 year plan to manage and fund (usually) large projects. A Reserve Study will help the board to schedule, budget and properly maintain the common elements. It is highly recommended that the study be done and updated by experienced professionals like PRA (Professional Reserve Analysts) members of the Association of Professional Analysts. See www.apra-usa.com for a directory PRA members.

Use these hints to help craft your own Preventive Maintenance Plan. Deferring maintenance is a sucker bet that will come back to bite. Stay ahead of the game.     BACK

Defective Construction
When home building activity increases, builders and contractors are put under greater pressure to complete construction and stay below budget. While professionals can achieve good results with expertise and efficiency, sometimes budget cutting is accomplished by using low grade materials and marginally trained labor. Added to this is failure to adhere to critical waterproofing details, building codes and manufacturer installation protocols. The end results are wasted materials, resources, time, energy, money and a great deal of frustration.

By Jay Mainella - Lifetime Exteriors   BACK

Doctor Oz
Deferring maintenance in a homeowner association has negative and lasting effects. While postponing maintenance may seem to be a money-saving technique, the consequences are usually a much higher cost over time.

Painting is one of the largest elements of routine common area maintenance for many HOAs. Poorly maintained paint will fail prematurely. Touchup should be done annually. Wood trim should be painted every 3-4 years. The complete painting of buildings should be done every 6-8 years.

Drainage. Rain and sprinkler run-off can create problems for the lawn, landscaping and underground building areas. The landscape contractor can often provide for drainage corrections that will mitigate these areas.

Salt Air Corrosion. Salt air found at coastal locations can rapidly deteriorate and short-circuit light fixtures, elevator electronics, fire sprinkler system plumbing, electrical boxes and door hardware. These should be checked every year.

Concrete sidewalks and driveways need to be inspected annually for cracks and raised areas, as well as degradation of the surface. Raised areas create a trip hazard which can be corrected by grinding or removal and replacement.

Asphalt paving needs to be repaired and seal coated every 3-5 years to properly protect it so it will achieve its maximum useful life of 25-30 years.

Roofs need to be part of a Spring and Fall maintenance plan. They need to be inspected, repaired and cleaned by a qualified roofing maintenance contractor.

Roof gutters and downspouts should be cleaned at least twice a year, more often in "hotspots" where leaf debris is prevalent. Failure to do this causes backups and overflow that damages paint, siding and landscaping.

Playground equipment should be inspected and maintained to ensure child safety.

Directional signage should be in good repair and easily readable in order to assist emergency response services like police, fire and pizza delivery (joke). Directories with name and addresses also facilitate emergency response. The directory should be regularly updated for accuracy.

Reserve Study. This is a 30 year plan to manage and fund (usually) large projects. A Reserve Study will help the board to schedule, budget and properly maintain the common elements. It is highly recommended that the study be done and updated by experienced professionals like PRA (Professional Reserve Analysts) members of the Association of Professional Analysts. See www.apra-usa.com for a directory PRA members.

Use these hints to help craft your own Preventive Maintenance Plan. Deferring maintenance is a sucker bet that will come back to bite. Follow Doctor Oz’s advice and use an "Oz (Ounce) of Prevention".   BACK

Who Pays for Windows?
Unless your condominium association is a front for the NSA (National Security Agency), it has exterior windows. A window is a hole in the wall and everything that fills that hole. In an ideal world, windows function, live long and useful lives, let in light and other good things, keep out bad things, are maintained, repaired, and replaced to professional standards by the association. The owner who benefits from them pays the costs of consumption by adequately funding reserves.

In some states statutes, exterior windows lie outside the definition of unit boundaries. Exterior windows are thus part of the common elements. Because they are part of the common elements a homeowner association has a right to replace those that are either defective or at the end of their useful life.

Statutory defaults may be modified by your declaration. If your declaration permits individual owners to control the repair and replacement of exterior windows, consult with an attorney about changing your declaration.

There are many good reasons why a homeowner association should maintain control over window repair and replacement. The association is more likely to abide by code requirements that ensure the installation of energy efficient windows and proper installation. When owners are allowed to replace their own windows, some owners will skimp and use contractors who fail to use quality materials and skilled workers. Poor quality work can lead to moisture in the building with predictably bad results. When the vast majority of windows need replacement toward the end of their useful life, it is almost certainly more cost effective for the association to obtain one bid than for individual owners to obtain their own bids. If one owner fails to pay for work performed, the stiffed contractor could lien all of the units.

Replacing broken glass, flashing, caulking or window stripping can cause serious damage if not performed by a skilled professional. Owner maintenance responsibilities should be limited to inspecting, cleaning and finishing interior framing. Limiting owner maintenance responsibilities reduces the risk that an unskilled owner will cause damage to other units, property and the integrity of the building.

What your declaration says about maintenance, repair, replacement, unit boundaries, common expense liability allocation, viable construction defect claims and insurance should be taken into consideration when determining how much each owner pays. But determining how much each owner pays for window repair and replacement doesn’t need to be complicated. In almost every case an association can avoid a donnybrook over who pays for what by adopting the following:

Windows Code of Conduct
1. The Association controls all aspects of repair and replacement of exterior windows.
2. Owners must ask for permission from the Association before repairing or replacing windows, before installing new windows, skylights, solar tubes, air holes, or periscopes, or before painting or finishing window exteriors.
3. Only the Association may penetrate a unit’s perimeter walls, floor, or ceiling.
4. The Association pays for installation, repair, and replacement of windows and recovers those costs from some or all of the owners.
  a. If window installation, repair, or replacement is an individual unit owner expense, the Association assesses the cost to the benefited owner or owners in a fair and equitable manner.
  b. If window installation, repair, or replacement is a common expense, then the Association assesses all owners for the cost in accordance with the declaration’s common expense liability schedule.
5. Windows maintenance means inspection, cleaning, and interior finishing. Each owner at least annually inspects the windows for fogging, water damage on the window wall, air leaks or missing caulking or other damage and reports any possible damage immediately to the Association.
6. If a window is installed incorrectly, the Association asks the installer to cure the installation at the installer’s expense.
7. If a window is damaged as a result of an event covered by insurance, the Association files an insurance claim when doing so is reasonable.
8. The Association hires a suitably qualified professional such as an architect, reserve specialist or building envelope consultant to estimate remaining useful life (windows don’t last forever) and an appropriate reserve funding model.
9. The Association follows correct budgeting procedures.

The Association controls all aspects of repair and replacement of exterior windows (yes, this is included twice).

Who pays for windows? All owners will eventually. But in a world where some answers remain in the dark, perhaps this article and a broken window will let in some light. "But, soft! What light through yonder window breaks?" Romeo and Juliet, Act II, Scene 2, Line 1.

By Brian P. McLean of Leahy McLean Fjelstad. First published in the Community Associations Journal, December 2013.   BACK

Dryer Vent Safety
5,600 fires. 15 deaths. 400 injuries. $99 million in direct property loss. That was the average toll taken by fires caused by clothes dryers between 2002 and 2004, according to the U.S. Fire Administration.

Many homeowners consider a clothes dryer a necessity. However, improper installation or maintenance of this appliance can pose a serious fire risk. The leading factor contributing to dryer fires is failure to clean lint from traps, vents and areas surrounding the dryer.

• Lengthy drying times

• Clothes are hotter than normal at the end of the dry cycle

• Dryer deactivation due to high temperatures

• Increased heat and humidity in the area of the dryer

• Flapper on vent hood does not open when dryer is on

• Replace plastic and metal foil vents with 4" minimum diameter rigid metal vents.

• Vent dryers to the outside in the shortest, straightest distance possible.

• Insulate the dryer vent to protect it from lower outside temperatures.

• Remind residents to clean the lint filter before or after drying every load.

• Inspect the dryer vent termination point at least annually for blockages, bird nests or the presence of other wildlife.

• Purchase and install a portable fire extinguisher in an accessible area near the laundry room.

Information from Community Associations Underwriters   BACK