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Maintenance Articles |
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Project Roll-Out Contractors are more available. Winter is a slow time for many contractors. This means they have the time to thoughtfully consider your work and produce a good proposal. Better pricing. Sometimes the work you want done can be performed during the winter months, (even certain kinds of roofing). If you agree to start the project now, you just may save a significant amount of money. When work is slow, many contractors are willing to offer better pricing to "seal the deal". Scheduling preference. If you accept a contractor’s proposal now, you can generally dictate the scheduling. Set the date now. If you wait you may not make the schedule at all. Arranging for money. If you haven’t accumulated enough reserve funds, you will need several months to discuss, approve and collect a special assessment. Coordination with residents. If the project is extensive and disruptive, you will want to warn residents well in advance. This will give them the opportunity to work around or even plan vacations strategically. Always get references and check them out. It is important to use only contractors that have a good track record. Make sure the references are for work that is comparable in size and complexity to yours. It is not uncommon for small contractors to get in over their head when trying to nail down work. Feel comfortable that they can deliver what they promise. Always, always (repeat) always use contractors that are properly licensed, bonded and insured to do the work they are contracting to perform. If you have any question about requirements, contact the state licensing board. Use it. Get named on their insurance. Insist on getting a current copy of the contractor’s liability insurance coverage directly from his insurance agent. If you accept the proposal, require that the HOA be included on this insurance as an "additional insured" and get an appropriate and current insurance certificate from the contractor’s insurance agent to prove it. Make progress payments. Do not make advance payments on the project work. This is often the sign of a contractor on a "shoe string" that may be using your money to pay other jobs’ labor or supply bills. You could be left high and dry with uncompleted work. Instead, use progress payments that pay for work actually completed. Usually, make no more than one per month and be sure to inspect the work to verify completion. Consider paying for a Performance Bond. For large and expensive projects, requiring a Performance Bond provides assurance that the contractor will perform, or, another contractor can be hired to finish the job. It costs extra but is often worth it. Get Lien Waivers. When making payments, have the contractor sign a Lien Waiver for the amount tendered. (Your attorney can provide the appropriate form or ask the state contractor’s board for a sample.) A Lien Waiver is the contractor’s promise that he has paid (or will pay) all labor, material and supply bills related to the work to date. Keep in mind that if your contractor "forgets" to pay his suppliers or subcontractors, those folks have the right to place a lien on the HOA property to secure their debt. It’s a good policy to require copies of all supply, material and labor bills be attached to and referenced in the signed Lien Waiver. It’s also appropriate to have all materials delivered directly to the job site and to pay for materials directly. You will need someone in charge of ordering the material and making sure it’s delivered and secured. For any substantial construction, it is very important to involve an attorney who can draft or review the contract. Don’t bypass this important step. There’s a lot riding on what the Board is obligating the HOA to. There is much planning involved in rolling out a successful renovation project. Forget the leap of faith on this one. The safety net just may not be there when you land. Get a jump on your renovation projects and get a quality job done on schedule and at the best price. BACK
Deck Coating 101 Deck coatings require reapplication at recommended intervals and come in a variety of types and qualities. And like paint, it is always highly recommended to pay more for the best for better durability and performance. The cost of application labor is the same. A homeowner association that has deck maintenance responsibility should reserve around $2-3 per square foot for cleaning, repairing and recoating. Since the chemistry of coatings varies widely, it’s always best to recoat with the same product originally used (assuming it is doing the job it was intended to do). If unsure what the original product is, you should have the decks inspected by a knowledgeable deck coating professional to make recommendations. This maintenance should take place every three to five years depending on the level of foot traffic and weather conditions. But what about the replacement of the deck coating? Most deck coating systems have an estimated 15-30 year useful life assuming regular maintenance and recoating is being done according to manufacturer’s specifications. Urethane deck systems generally last 15 to 20 years while slip sheet systems 25 to 30 years. Deck systems, like metal lathe with acrylic coating, can last longer than 30 years. For less durable deck coating systems, including system replacement in the reserve plan is indicated since it qualifies under the three to thirty year guideline. This job includes removal and replacement of flashing, door pans, drains and scuppers. Since deck coatings are an integral part of the building envelope and failing to maintain them can lead to water intrusion, dryrot, mold and other structural and health issues, make sure you include them in your reserve planning and regular maintenance. Excerpts from article by Bill Leys of www.waterproofdeckcoatingadvice.com BACK
Powder Problem Several conditions must occur for efflorescence to appear. The soluble salts must be present in the bricks, mortar, or transported by water into the masonry from another source. There must be sufficient water to carry the salts in solution to the surface of the masonry. Then, evaporation causes the salts to come out of solution and be left behind as the salt deposits. Soluble salts come from many elements or minerals found in the materials from which bricks and mortar are made. The sand used in mortar can have significant quantities of soluble salts. To reduce the efflorescence effect in mortar, experienced masons use only washed sand which reduces the soluble salt content. But even with careful selection of materials, soluble salts can also be present in the soil behind a wall or the water used to mix the mortar. Efflorescence will often stop on its own when the supply of soluble salt in the bricks or mortar becomes exhausted. It can also stop if the source of water which dissolves the soluble salts is cut off. The process can also stop if the water in which the salts are dissolved is prevented from getting to the surface of the masonry. However, if a wall is used for retaining purposes, the process is impossible to stop unless the back side of the wall is waterproofed to prevent water intrusion There are several options to remove the deposits which include using a stiff brush followed by flushing with water. However, this process can sometimes dissolve the salts and cause them to soak back into the wall. Using a weak solution of muriatic acid on some types of salts sometimes works however, acid solutions can cause severe burns to skin and eyes. This should only be attempted by experienced contractors. For step-by-step instructions how to stop water from getting into and behind brick, block or stone walls, see www.askthebuilder.com Sealing Masonry Ebook! BACK
Groundscape Q: Will it deteriorate or decompose? Q: How safe is it? Q: Does the color fade? Q: Is it dirty? Q: Will it stain? Q: What about mold or fungus? Q: If it happens to find it’s way into
the washer and dryer won’t it stain or melt onto the clothes? Q: How is it installed? Q: How much maintenance will it require? Q: Does it smell? Q: Is it flammable? Q: Will it blow or wash away? Q: Does it attract animals? Q: Does it freeze? Q: Will it harm my plants and flowers? So there you have it. For more, go to www.groundscapelandscape.com BACK
Water Way Nuts & Bolts Some stormwater systems are incorporated as an amenity and become part of the community’s desired aesthetics. Homes adjacent to a lake or pond typically are sold as waterfront property, commanding a higher price. Other stormwater systems are hidden and become overgrown, odorous and generally unsightly. Residents might not even know they are there. Whether a stormwater system is a planned amenity or a forgotten swamp, state and local municipalities have regulations for managing and maintaining it. If you don’t handle stormwater systems properly, be assured your repair costs will be significant, and your community is likely to be fined for code violations. The longer you wait to implement a good maintenance program, the more costly remediation will be. Stormwater management facilities deteriorate as they age. Each year, wet areas become more overgrown with nuisance vegetation and loaded with nutrient-rich sediment and organic muck. Algae blooms more frequently, and the areas fill with trash, debris and much more. Degraded pipes and outflow structures and unstable dam embankments cause some to fail. With proper management, homeowner associations can handle structural issues and meet regulatory requirements effectively and inexpensively. They also can create a water body, wetland or other aquatic habitat that is a focal point for community enjoyment. Plants. Buffer plants— a green zone around the water’s edge—improve water quality and reduce algae, odors and other unsightly problems by filtering nutrients and providing a habitat for beneficial wildlife. Plants stabilize shores and prevent erosion by minimizing sediment flow into the water. That, in turn, reduces frequent and costly dredging to remove sediment buildup. Communities should use plants—grasses, sedges, rushes and beneficial flowering wetland species—that are native to the area; they make natural, aesthetic, low-maintenance buffers. Turf or lawn grasses aren’t good choices for buffers because they need to be mowed. When nutrient-rich clippings fall into the pond, organic matter builds up, the shoreline erodes and sediment enters the pond. Fountains. Many communities install fountains to add a beautiful and serene focal point, but they’re also important to the health and ecological balance of aquatic resources. Fountains improve water quality by circulating, destratifying and aerating water. Aeration improves natural biological processes that reduce nutrients, in turn reducing algae, poor water clarity and foul odors. Circulation also eliminates stagnant water, which deters mosquito breeding. Bacteria and minerals. Stormwater systems can be inoculated with natural, beneficial aerobic bacteria to maintain ecological balance. Most ponds are plagued with filamentous algae; left unmanaged, it takes over a pond. Beneficial aerobic bacteria consume the same nutrients as algae, which keeps it in check and reduces unsightly blooms. Adding mineral-based products to water also eliminates plants’ and algae’s primary food source—making unsafe or unsightly blooms much less likely. Fish. Stocking fish in a pond or lake can help balance an aquatic ecosystem, eliminate mosquitoes and control algae and invasive aquatic weeds. If desired, it also can provide recreational fishing. Minnows and other forage fish not only consume mosquito larvae but also are a food source for larger predator fish. HOAs can use many strategies to maintain a stormwater system properly. The key is striking the right balance between natural and engineered solutions. By Kevin Tucker - www.solitudelakemanagement.com Reprinted with permission from CAI’s Common Ground, Sep/Oct 2013 BACK
Sound Advice At the same time, people who could afford to live in high-end condos wanted upscale interior finishes, including hardwood floors. Clearly, a compromise that would shield downstairs neighbors from the noise was in order. In truth, sound-reduction systems have been used in South Florida, Los Angeles, New York City and other metropolitan areas for many years, sometimes demanded by building codes, more often by condo boards. But, as wood flooring has found its way into more common wall communities, new solutions have evolved to solve the sound-transmission problem. One of the oldest and most complex solution involves installing sleepers in a bed of mastic with sound-absorbent material installed in the spaces between the sleepers. The wood flooring is then installed over the sleepers. Simpler solutions include rolls or sheets of foam, cork or other sound-absorbent material installed between the wood floor and the subfloor. In installations over concrete slabs, the sound-absorbent material is often installed above the slab, with a layer of plywood above the material, followed by the finished floor. A similar system utilizes a foam or cork pad, which is loose-laid over the subfloor. A double layer of plywood glued and screwed together at right angles is then laid over the pad, and the wood floor is nailed into the plywood. To maximize the sound absorption qualities of the system, no metal fastener should penetrate the foam or cork pad, so the fastener should be set to penetrate no farther than the depth of the plywood. A common and relatively simple foam or cork pad system can be used for either glue-down or floating floors. For a glue-down floor, the pad should be glued to the subfloor, with the wood flooring glued to the pad. In many cases, the same adhesive can be used for both. Some adhesives also have good sound-absorption qualities, so the combination of adhesive and foam or cork can provide fairly significant noise reduction. For a floating-floor system, the underlayment pad (foam or cork) is loose laid over the subfloor and the wood flooring is floated above that. Some underlayment manufacturers also recommend installation of a "perimeter isolation strip" at the walls. The isolation strip is designed to prevent impact sounds on the floor from being transferred to the wall and into other rooms. The cost of these systems can vary, depending on the level of sound-absorption required and on labor costs in different regions. However, most will fall within a range of $1.50 to $3 per square foot, installed. For those poor souls living below tap dancers, sound deadening panels attached to the ceiling can offer relief. Attaching resilient metal channels to provide an air gap to which is fastened 5/8"-3/4" sheetrock will considerably reduce sound transmission. It is relatively inexpensive to install over the existing ceiling and only takes 1-1½" of ceiling height away. It will enhance livability and make the unit more saleable. As a token of good will, the upstairs neighbor may be willing to share of the cost. At least they should be asked. Their willingness to be part of the solution will go a long way toward mending fences. For more on this, see www.controlnoise.com Building codes or condo requirements may dictate that flooring contractors provide documentation that the installation meets code. Manufacturers of products specifically designed for flooring underlayment will typically provide that documentation. For example, a contractor who purchases cork that isn't designed for flooring underlayment may not get the sound absorption he needs and he certainly won't get the documentation a condo association might demand. Beyond the demands of building codes and condo boards, flooring contractors might also find that more one family homes are looking for sound absorption qualities in their floors. If a contractor knows how to provide that sound-absorption, he may find that second-story wood floors are a more attractive option for his customers. And that should remove yet one more place sometimes thought to be off-limits to wood flooring. By Rick Berg - Hardwood Floors Magazine BACK
13 Painting Tips One of the most vexing paint failure issues in HOAs involves new construction. New construction can, and often does, suffer from the consequences of "low bidder syndrome". Painting contractors that specialize in new construction often have extremely low profit margins which encourages cutting corners like: 1. Failure to Prime. Unpainted trim and siding requires primer so that the finish coat will adhere properly. While many sidings come pre-primed from the factory, wood trim almost always comes without it so needs to be field primed. Since the finish paint looks the same with or without a primer undercoat, this critical step is often skipped. 2. Application Temperature. 50 F is the minimum temperature that latex paint should be applied. Winter temperatures in many locations can fall below (way below) 50 F. Even if this happens only at night and the temperature rises during the day, the surface temperature of siding can take hours to rise above 50 F. If latex is applied to a surface below 50 F, it will not bond properly and fail prematurely. Most paint contractors will not wait for the correct surface temperature since it reduces production time. 3. Using Oil vs. Latex Paint. Latex paint is recommended for most exterior siding applications because it remains flexible longer and resists solar, wind and temperature degradation better than oil base paint. But when colder application temperature is an issue, many paint contractors will use oil base paint which can be applied at lower temperature. While oil looks as good as latex, it fails sooner. 4. Effects of Heat, Wind & Humidity. Hot, windy or low humidity conditions force paint to dry too fast. High humidity can cause paint to sag and run. 5. Painting Wet Surfaces. In wet climates, it’s common for framing, sheathing, siding and trim to be applied in the rain and be thoroughly saturated with moisture. Applying paint to such wet surfaces creates a barrier that evaporating moisture will eventually cause the paint to fail. 6. Premature Failure. As a rule, construction completed in cold, wet weather is likely to suffer from premature paint failure. What this means to a new homeowner association is that the next repaint should be planned in half the normal time. Since the HOA will usually be paying for the repaint, it is important to prepare proper specifications to correct the problems of the past. 7. How Long Will the Paint Last? After fixing the initial paint application failure previously described, a typical paint job will last 6-10 years in a wet climate and 10-14 years in a dry climate. In wet climates, moss and algae degrade the paint. In dry climates, the sun will fade the paint and solar heat cause it to fail. In both climates, using lighter shades of high quality properly applied paint will maximize useful life since reflecting solar rays and heat prolongs life. Dark colors absorb heat causing the paint to expand and contract more leading to earlier failure. Expect to get 2-4 years less life from dark colors. Some paint manufacturers claim their paint will last a very long time, like 25 years, and charge a lot more for it. While this long life claim sounds enticing, do you really want to be stuck with the same color for such a long time? Even if the paint could last that long, sun, rain, wind, dirt, algae and moss will degrade the paint much sooner. Take long paint warranty claims with a large grain of salt. 8. Importance of Caulking. Caulking is paint’s weakest link. Even when a quality caulking is properly applied, it often fails before the paint, allowing rain to seep in and cause structural damage. So, a critical part of every repaint is caulking. As a matter of fact, it is prudent to inspect and recaulk halfway between each repaint to ensure the building envelope stays water resistant. 9. Affects of Extreme Weather. Exposure to extreme weather degrades paint sooner. Salt air, prolonged cloudy weather, wind driven rain and extreme temperatures lead to premature failure. 10. Site & Maintenance Considerations. Heavy tree cover promotes algae and mold growth on paint. Failure to keep rain gutters clean will cause overflows that damage paint. Modern roof designs often leave siding and trim exposed to more sun, wind and rain than older designs. Such conditions need to be factored into the paint life cycle. 11. Importance of Contemporary Colors. Keeping pace with the latest paint color fashion bolsters market values. At each paint cycle, consider color combinations that are popular. A dated look reduces value. 12. Take Advantage of Free Expertise. In return for buying their product, paint supply companies will prepare specifications to ensure their product is applied properly. Many offer a paint contractor inspection service to ensure that the contractor is following the specifications. Both of these services are free of charge. 13. Paint All Buildings at the Same Time. Due to inadequate reserve funding, your HOA may have gotten into the habit of painting several buildings each year instead of all at the same time. There are several problems with this. Some buildings will have new paint, some will have old paint. Buyers are willing to pay more for a newer look. It is also cheaper per unit to paint all buildings at the same time as virtually all paint contractors will offer a substantial discount for bigger jobs. Bottom line, consolidate multiple paint cycles into one if at all possible. This may require a special assessment but all owners receive equal benefit. If your HOA suffers from poor paint application, consult
with painting professionals to correct the sins of the past. It’s also wise to
pay more for the application contractor so the job can be done correctly.
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Updating a Mature Landscape Plants age just like we do. As they age, they become old and overgrown. The youthful flush they once had diminishes over time. When plants get to this stage, it’s time to update! Landscape updating may be as simple as moving shrubs from one place to another or elaborate as removing everything and installing new plant material. The first thing to decide is what plants should be kept and what plants need to be removed. Anything that is encroaching on walkways, windows and rooftops either needs to be pruned back or considered for removal. Plants that have outgrown their space and growing wild need to be considered for rejuvenation pruning or removal. Rejuvenation pruning is the process of heavily pruning a plant so that it will fill out with new growth in the spring. However, this process is only successful half of the time so get advice from your landscape contractor about which plants respond well to rejuvenation pruning. Sometimes, replacing those overgrown plants are the best option. Once the decision is made on what to keep and what to remove, it's time to update and add. Some HOAs like simple, low maintenance plantings and others prefer full, lush landscapes. Each is wonderful if done correctly. Spacing plant material so that plants will not grow together is the key to keeping your landscape looking clean. For a simple landscape, add few plants or none at all. A simple landscape renovation may only involve some plant removal and a layer of mulch. For an elaborate landscape with many dimensions, work with a landscape designer to create a plan that the landscape contractor can follow. It is important to think about seasonal interest. Are there enough evergreen shrubs in the landscape for winter appeal? It is best to plant medium, evergreen shrubs around foundations so in the winter, they don't look bare. They will also be the backdrop for flowering plants in the spring and summer. To add simple dimension to the landscape, install plants that will mature at different heights and sizes. Layer plant material from largest in the back to smallest in the front. Use a mix of plants that will be green all year long with plants that will flower and stay green only for part of the year. Complete the updated landscape with walkways where the most traffic occurs. Accessorize the landscape with boulders, furniture, water features and planted pots. These accessories will boost the dimension of the landscape and make it more usable and inviting. When updating a mature landscape work closely with your landscape contractor for simple upgrades and a landscape designer for complex upgrades. By Northwest Landscape Services BACK
Radon on the Radar Radon is under normal conditions gaseous and easily inhaled. Due to differences in geology, the level of the radon gas differs by location. Radon can accumulate in basements and crawl spaces. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), breathing high concentrations of radon is the second most frequent cause of lung cancer after cigarette smoking and causes 2900 deaths per year among people who have never smoked. So what should an HOA do with this information? In common wall HOAs, there may be an obligation to mitigate radon seeping from the ground into dwellings. Where this is likely to pop up is during a building inspection related to a real estate sale in locations known for radon. Lenders require the inspector to do testing prior to a closing. The seller that receives such a positive report may be required to "fix it" and might pass that obligation on to the board. If your board is aware of or has been informed of positive radon reports, the information should be circulated to all members. The HOA may be responsible to mitigate the problem depending on responsibilities outlined in the governing documents. Have a knowledgeable attorney review the documents and issue an opinion letter for board guidance. If it is deemed to be an HOA responsibility, the board should arrange a commercial radon inspection to determine a recommended course of action. It may point to mitigating it by having Radon Mitigation Equipment installed and maintained by a qualified contractor. Treat it seriously. If the HOA is not responsible for mitigation, inexpensive short term radon test kits are available at building supply outlets. If the results indicate a radon level of or more, a long term test should be done for more conclusive results. A level of 4 pCi/L (picoCuries per liter of air) or more indicates a need for Radon Mitigation Equipment, either by a handy homeowner or a qualified professional. With the proper test and mitigation equipment in place, it won’t delay a sale closing. There is also ongoing radon monitoring equipment which is hardwired with battery backup. It continually tracks radon levels and can even be connected to a smart phone app. Keep radon on the HOA’s radar by being proactive. For more information, see www.epa.gov/radon BACK |
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