Maintenance Articles

Beautiful Barriers
Robert Frost’s poem Mending Wall explores how people with different temperaments and territorial natures are able to cooperate and work together. He sums it up with "Good fences make good neighbors". In common wall homeowner associations, this observation resonates loudly. HOA barriers abound in a plethora of options including chainlink, brick, stone, wood, stucco, vinyl, concrete and siding.

Besides the visual differences of these barriers comes practical considerations. In common wall communities like condominiums, the HOA is responsible for the maintenance, repair and replacement of such structures. Materials like chainlink are inexpensive, have a long life and low maintenance, but aren’t very attractive and don’t afford privacy. Sided walls are expensive to build and maintain and are subject to dryrot in wet climates. There is a great alternative which is attractive, low maintenance and long lived called the "Good Neighbor Fence" (Frost would be proud). This fence is built of redwood or cedar and pressure treated wood (all rot resistant) with alternating boards on each side so that the fence looks the same on both sides. The open weave design blocks views but allows air to pass through for ventilation. This design also reduces the effects of high wind that could damage or blow the fence down.

Leaving the fence unpainted has a number of advantages since painted fences peel and need frequent touchup and repainting. Also, painted wood fences do not last as long as an unpainted Good Neighbor Fence. Cedar or redwood will last 15 to 25 years when properly built and left unpainted. Clear sealer can be applied to help retain the wood color but this does nothing to extend its life. As with any wood fence, the fence boards should have at least 6" clearance from the dirt.

The Good Neighbor Fence looks great, is ideal for replacing other types of fences and costs $15-20 a linear foot. Based on looks, price and durability, this is a seriously beautiful barrier.

Good Neighbor Fence specifications are available to Gold Subscribers. BACK

Debogging
In wet climates, boggy soil conditions can hamper use of turf areas. Normal soil makeup consists of small pieces of rock, organic debris, water and air. In many soils (especially clay soils), the air content is highest in the upper 24 inches. As you go deeper into a soil, the weight of the overlying material compresses the soil and squeezes out the air.

When it rains, water enters soil and pushes the air to the surface. Gravity then takes over. If the yard slopes, the water within the soil actually begins to flow downhill. Level yards suffer as the movement of the water through the soil is minimal. You can accelerate the movement of water or intercept and redirect sub-surface water by installing gravel covered perforated drainage pipes in narrow trenches. Water, just like most things, takes the path of least resistance. Subsurface water would much rather travel through gravel and pipes than force its way through soil.

A linear french drain is a moat that protects the yard or buildings from subsurface or surface water. It is constructed by digging a 6" wide by 24" deep trench. To intercept subsurface water to dry out the yard, install the trench along the highest part of the yard and extend it to the lowest part of the yard. If the intent is to protect buildings from water, construct the trench approximately 4-6 feet away from the foundation. In many cases the trench system is U shaped as it passes around the building house.

If the yard is nearly level, a series of inter-connected trenches will be needed. IMPORTANT: Before trenching, make sure to perform a utility line locate to ensure you don’t cut gas, water or electricity lines. Cutting utility lines could be extremely hazardous. To excavate the trench, use a trenching machine capable of 6" wide by 24" deep trenching. Use a builder's level to determine how deep to dig the trenches.

Yards that appear flat often have sufficient slope that allows installing the pipes so that they will extend to daylight at the lowest portion of your yard. Use the optical or laser builder's level to discover the high and low portions of the lot. The bottom of the trench can be level or it can follow the contour of the yard much like a fence. Daylighting the pipe exit will obtain the best drainage results.

Once the trench is completed:

Compact any loose soil in the bottom of the trench. A 6-foot 4x4 works well for this purpose.
Install commercial grade landscape fabric to line the trench overlapping it 6" starting at the exit end of the trench. Leave an extra 6" of fabric at the top of the trench on both edges. To hold the fabric in place, weight down the exposed fabric with 2x4s or rocks.
Install a 2" layer of washed gravel in the bottom of the trench.
Install perforated drain pipe with holes facing down. The reason the holes should point down is that the water table builds from the bottom up. If the holes point down, the water enters the pipe sooner than if the holes are pointed up. During wet periods, water is already up to the bottom of the holes and if it rises higher than the holes, the water flows into the holes and is carried away by the pipe.
After the pipe is installed in the trench, cover it with washed gravel to within 1" of the surface tamping down the gravel with your 4x4 to compact it.
Fold the 6" tails of landscape fabric to overlap the gravel.
Place sod over the gravel to disguise the trench. Or, to control surface water better, allow the gravel to be exposed to the surface. Widen the trench in the upper few inches of the soil to disguise the drainage system. Use colored stones, gravel or large stepping stones to create a walkway. To further enhance the illusion, install the trench with gentle curves as it traverses the lot.

From www.AsktheBuilder.com BACK

Fall Fix Up A to Z
Every fall, homeowner associations should exercise a series of preventive common area maintenance functions. For small HOAs or those with few common elements, the list will be short and easy to complete. For larger, more complex complexes, the list can be daunting. But, overlooking these things can have disastrous and expensive consequences. Here’s a helpful checklist to kick start the process.

Brick & Stone. Check joints between wood and masonry. Waterproof, repair or repoint if necessary.

Building Foundations.
Close or plug foundation vent openings.
Check and correct grade for proper drainage away from foundation.
Repair cracks.

Check Smoke Detectors. Check for proper operation.

Clean Carpets. At least once a year and more often if traffic demands it.

Clean Upholstery & Draperies. Inspect and clean if necessary or at least every two years.

Clean Air Ducts. Clean at least every three years to abate mold spores and dust that trigger respiratory problems or allergies.

Decks. Remove potted plants and removable carpet. Both promote dryrot under wet conditions.

Door & Window Weatherstripping. Check around doors and windows and replace it if necessary.

Exterior Lighting.
Replace burned out bulbs for better security and night visibility.
Reset exterior lighting clock to adjust for seasonal change or replace with photocell system.

Fireplace Chimneys & Caps.
Arrange a professional chimney inspection. Have those that need cleaning done at the owners’ expense.
Install chimney caps where missing and replace those that have rusted out to protect your chimney from water, debris and critters.

Heating System Maintenance
A. Forced Air Systems. Remove flammables stored in the furnace room since the fumes could be ignited by the furnace when it’s fired up. Change the filters. Set the thermostat to heating mode and test the furnace to burn off the dust that collects over the summer and to ensure it is in working order.

Hire a heating professional to perform a maintenance check-up, including these steps:
1. Inspect thermostat for proper operation.
2. Inspect filter and change or clean as needed.
3. Check all electrical components and controls.
4. Oil motors as needed.
6. Inspect heat exchanger for possible cracks, which would introduce carbon monoxide into the living space.
7. Check air flow. If diminished, it may be necessary to clean the evaporator coil and duct work.
8. Check air fuel mixture, where appropriate.

B. Gas Burner System. Clean burners and ports, or have them professionally cleaned.

C. Oil Burner System, Have a professionally serviced; lubricate fan and motor bearings.

D. Heat Pump. Have a professional inspect wiring, belts and oil the moving parts.

E. Hot Water System. Have a professional check shut-off valve for leaks and drain lower water cut-off per manufacturer's instructions. Lubricate pump and motor; bleed air from radiators or convectors.

F. Oil Fired Boiler. Have professional perform annual maintenance including flue cleaning, a fuel-filter change, cleaning and adjustment of the jets.

Landscaping.
Prune back trees or shrubs at least three feet from the siding and roof.
Fertilize, thatch, aerate and reseed turf areas.

Parking Lots.
Arrange for sweeping.
Have drains cleaned out.
Repaint curbs.
Repair deteriorated areas.

Pipes.
Check for rust or white lime deposits that indicate leaking.
Install covers on outside hose bibs if danger of freeze is possible.
If drain line blockage is common due to buildup or tree roots, perform a preventive flush or rooting to prevent back ups and flooding.

Roof-Shingled.
Check for warping, aging, moss and cracking; Repair or replace as needed.
Inspect and repair flashing around chimneys, skylights and vents.

Roof-Flat
Sweep to remove debris; clear all drains and scuppers.
Inspect and repair separated roofing seams, parapet wall caps, vent and pipe flashing .

Roof-Gutters & Downspouts. Clean gutters and downspouts and make sure they are running clear.

Siding. Inspect all, especially sun and weather sides, for deterioration, cracks, splintering, decay, and insect damage; clean, treat, recaulk and repair as needed.

Snow & Ice Preparations. Make sure your ice and snow removal equipment is in good repair. Buy snow melt product and place in accessible locations near steps and walkways for residents’ use. Contract for future snow removal if appropriate.

Stucco. A chalky residue is evidence of oxidation and deterioration of paint or color coat that reduces stucco's effectiveness. Check for cracks which allow water to get in around windows and doors. Hire a professional to correct the problem.

Trim. Remove peeling paint on the trim and fascia boards, window sills and sashes; Prime and repaint as needed.

Water Heaters.
Every six months turn off the energy source and flush until clear of sediment.
Inspect flue assembly (gas or oil heater); check for leaks and corrosion.

A timely and well executed Fall Fix Up can go a long way to preventing unexpected failures of your building and grounds components. It will also ensure that your components get the longest life and reduce unnecessary expenses. Guess what? Fall is here and it’s time to get busy! BACK