Maintenance Articles
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Their burrowing activities produce mounds and ridges that disfigure lawns and sometimes dislodge plants or injure plant roots. Their mounds also provide a medium for the germination of weed seeds. Two types of runways are produced by moles: sub-surface runways and deep runways. Certain tunnels consist of both runways and are used for major lanes of travel and may be used by several moles in the area.

Sub-surface runways are feeding tunnels just below the soil surface and commonly seen as the raised ridges running through lawn areas. They are capable of extending these runways at the rate of 100 feet per day. Sub-surface runs may be used daily and revisited at irregular intervals. Sometimes the sub-surface run will be used for feeding and then abandoned. They connect with the deep runways, which are located between 3 and 12 inches below the surface. Few or no mounds are produced as a result of the production of sub-surface tunnels.

Deep runways are usually main runways, since they are used daily as the mole travels to and from the main sub-surface runways or the nest. The soil excavated from the deep tunnels is deposited on the surface through short vertical tunnels in volcano-like mounds.

The number of mounds or surface ridges is no indication of how many moles may be present. Usually, one acre of land will support about two or three moles at one time.

Moles feed primarily on earthworms, beetle grubs, ants, seeds and vegetable matter. They usually will not eat bulbs or the roots of garden plants. They are active all year 24 hours a day. They are visibly active during the spring and fall on damp days or following rain showers when they push up more tunnels and mounds. When the ground surface becomes frozen or very dry, moles use only the deeper burrows.

If moles are wreaking havoc in your landscape, contact a trained technician for mole control. Information provided by Proven Ecological Pest Control. BACK

To Roof or Not to Roof?
Question: Our board is split on whether to borrow funds to complete a roofing replacement program. Some of the directors think a bank loan is anathema, others feel that it will reduce the interior damage the homeowners are experiencing and well worth the interest charge. The opponents figure that the owners have waited several years for relief and a few more years won’t hurt. I feel that they should bite the bullet and borrow the money. A former president is dead set against the concept of borrowing money and has convinced several board members that they'd be breaching their fiduciary duty if they went to a bank.

Answer:  If there is ongoing damage to the buildings, it is imperative that the it be repaired as soon as possible to prevent further damage. If the association lacks the funds, either a special assessment must be passed or consideration given to a bank loan. It is not uncommon for associations to borrow for large projects since getting the whole job done now, rather than later, will usually save a pile of cash. This sounds like a time to bite the bullet. THAT’S the board's fiduciary duty.  BACK

Ants in Your Plants (and Buildings)?
One of the most destructive insect pests is carpenter ants. Their presence should not be treated lightly as they can cause significant structural damage is a short period of time. Here’s some helpful information to help you identify these varmints:

Carpenter ant workers are about ¼ - ½ inches long, dull black with reddish legs and golden hairs covering the abdomen. Queens are about 5/8+ inches long. Other color combinations are red and black, or completely red or brown. Although carpenter ants do not sting, their bites can be quite painful, especially when they inject formic acid into the wound.

External infestation is usually indicated when there are small openings on wood surface. Here the workers will expel debris which consists of sawdust-like shavings and fragments of insulation and insect body parts. They prefer to a hollow out soften wood that has moisture problems and fungus.

Carpenter ant colonies often number over 3,000 workers (up to 10-20,000 including satellite nests) when maturity is reached in about 3 to 6 years. Large colonies contain about 100,000 workers. Full metamorphosis from egg to adult takes at least 60 days for the worker ants. There is usually only one functional, wingless queen per colony. Swarmers (reproductive ants) are not produced until the colony is more than 2-3 years old. Swarmers appear from February through June.

The workers forage for distances of up to 300 feet from the nest gather their food which consist of: insect honeydew, plant and fruit juices, insects, and other arthropods. Although some workers are active during the day, most are active from dusk to till dawn. Most carpenter ants establish their first nest in decayed wood and later expand into sound wood. Workers are destructive to timbers utilized for nesting activities. Outside nests are typically located in rotting fence posts, stumps, old firewood, dead portions of standing trees, and under stones or fallen logs. To discourage infestation, remove these attractive nuisances. In particular, never store firewood next to structures.

The presence of a nest is sometimes indicated by a rustling sound coming from wall voids or from wood where the colony is located. Also, the presence of swarmers indoors may be the first indication of an indoor colony.  BACK

Good Fences Make Good Neighbors
The need for privacy in common wall housing increases due to proximity of neighbors. For continuity of appearance, it’s important to adopt a fence "standard" that addresses privacy, maintenance and reasonable cost issues. The following "Good Neighbor Style Fence" works well for that purpose:

Good Neighbor Style Fence Policy - This is the ONLY style of fence authorized for installation at our association. All repairs and replacements are to be order by the Board or Property Manager only. Wood will remain unpainted for uniformity and to reduce maintenance costs. When replacement of other style fencing is required, the "Good Neighbor Style" will be installed according to these specifications for maximum durability:

• All previous fencing material shall be removed and disposed of properly.
• 4" x 4" x 8' treated fence posts set a minimum of 18" deep in premixed concrete on 8' centers
• 2" x 4" treated horizontal rails set for attaching vertical boards
• 1" x 6" x 6' #1 select cedar board, alternating on railings with ½" overlap
• 2" x 6" tight knot cedar cap rail
• 1" x 6" clear cedar horizontal trim boards on top and bottom of vertical overlapping boards
• All nails shall be galvanized.
• All boards shall be hand nailed.
• All work shall be done by a properly licensed, bonded and insured contractor
• All work shall be done in a professional manner BACK

Pruning the Landscape Contractor
Question: We have recently replaced 29 sprinkler heads that were damaged by mower blades and have 10-12 tree trunks that have been nicked several times by mower blades. We have informed the landscaper and he offered to pay for half of damage. We want out of this contract since it was the previous Board that contracted with this individual. It states in his contract that if we dismiss him before the six months, we have to pay 2/3 of the amount we pay him for his services. What can we do to get out of the contract? He's been negligent and we want to prevent any more damage from occuring and money is being wasted. We have recently replaced 29 sprinkler heads that were damaged by mower blades and have 10-12 tree trunks that have been nicked several times by mower blades. We have informed the landscaper and he offered to pay for half of damage. We want out of this contract since it was the previous Board that contracted with this individual. It states in his contract that if we dismiss him before the six months, we have to pay 2/3 of the amount we pay him for his services. 

What can we do to get out of the contract? He's been negligent and we want to prevent any more damage from occurring and money is being wasted. We have recently replaced 29 sprinkler heads that were damaged by mower blades and have 10-12 tree trunks that have been nicked several times by mower blades. We have informed the landscaper and he offered to pay for half of damage. We want out of this contract since it was the previous Board that contracted with this individual. It states in his contract that if we dismiss him before the six months, we have to pay 2/3 of the amount we pay him for his services. What can we do to get out of the contract? He's been negligent and we want to prevent any more damage from occurring and money is being wasted. We have recently replaced 29 sprinkler heads that were damaged by mower blades and have 10-12 tree trunks that have been nicked several times by mower blades. We have informed the landscaper and he offered to pay for half of damage. We want out of this contract since it was the previous Board that contracted with this individual. It states in his contract that if we dismiss him before the six months, we have to pay 2/3 of the amount we pay him for his services. What can we do to get out of the contract? He's been negligent and we want to prevent any more damage from occurring and money is being wasted.

Answer: The current board is bound to contracts made by the previous board. Board turnover does not nullify that obligation. The six month clause is designed to protect the contractor from termination without just cause. However, if the landscaper has breached the contract...in this case, damaged the landscaping and failed to correct the damages when requested by the board, then the association has the right to terminate the contract immediately. In other words, you are not bound to a contractor that is doing damage to your assets because of a contract clause. Just make sure that the damage is documented in writing, the association's expectation from the contractor is clear, and his written response which indicates he won't or can't comply.     BACK

Terminating Termites
In moist warm climates, dampwood termites thrive and cause considerable damage to wood structures. They need to be treated with respect. Ogden Nash put it this way:

"Some primal termite knocked on wood
And tasted it, and found it good!
And that is why your Cousin May
Fell through the parlor floor today."

If the wood is sound, termites will eat only the spring wood (softwood between the "grain" lines), however, if the wood is decayed, they will eat across the summer wood (the "grain" lines), consuming both spring and summer wood. By doing this, they make a series of chambers connected by tunnels whose walls are smooth as if finely sandpapered

Termites take on several forms. The "swarmer" is up to 1 inch long, including wings. The antennae usually have more than 22 segments. They are smooth and have 1 or more large spines along the length of the tibia and the apex. Body color is amberish. Swarming begins in August-October. Swarmers excavate a chamber, enter and the chamber is sealed. They mate within 2 weeks and eggs are laid within 14-18 days of the colony founding. The queen lays a range of 6-22 eggs. The second batch is laid the next spring. Colonies sizes vary, but they have been known to be up to 4,000 members.

There is no "worker" among dampwood termites. The nymphs perform all the tasks typically done by workers.

These termites require wood with a high moisture content. Wood in contact with the ground or with a constant moisture source is most susceptible to attack. Dampwood termites are found in logs, stumps and standing dead trees. From these places they move into structures.

Termites are particularly insidious in common wall communities like condominiums or cooperative since treating them in one location may only drive them to the neighbors unit. When treating for termites and other wood boring insects like carpentar ants, take the "wholistic" approach and take no prisoners.     BACK

Winter’s A’ Comin’
Indian Summer reminds us that winter is just around the corner. Here’s a handy ‘to do" list to button up your property:

Inspect and Repair Roofs There is no better time than now to check for loose or missing shingles and flashing. If you have a flat roof, repair separated seams and unplugged drains and scuppers.

Clean Gutters & Downspouts Schedule gutter cleaning just after the fall leaves drop and before the rains turn them into sludge.

Seal Foundation Vents Shut vent flaps or install styrofoam blocks to keep crawlspace pipes from freezing.

Shut-Off Outside Faucets   Ideally, each faucet has an the interior shut-off valve. Regardless, install a foam faucet cover to protect it from freezing.

Snow & Ice Preparations Replenish a supply of an ice melt product if applicable.

Irrigation System Leave the irrigation clock plugged in and making sure there is a fresh battery in the clock so reprogramming in the Spring won’t be necessary. The irrigation system must be turned off by finding the point of connection and turning off the gate valve. Next, open the drain valve to allow water to drain out of the system. (If your system is installed properly, blowing out the system with compressed air is unnecessary.)

Landscape Fertilization Winter fertilize shrubs and turf. Shrubs should receive a good 10-10-10 shrub fertilizer and lawns a Fall and Winter fertilizer like 10-7-14 "slow release". This blend of fertilizers will "feed" the roots of the plants without forcing new growth on the leaves. This should keep your lawn and shrubs looking green and healthy during the winter.

Moss Control Lawn moss becomes active in the Fall and Winter. Moss occurs in areas of poor drainage, much shade and heavily compacted soil. To counteract moss, prune dense trees to reduce shade, aerate lawns to relieve soil compaction, provide improved drainage in swampy areas and apply a moss control product.

Correct Drainage Problems Water can become a serious problem in the Fall as the ground becomes saturated. A below ground drainage system can be installed to prevent water from accumulating in lawns and bed areas.

Inspect and Prune Trees  Inspect the trees with a tree care service or landscape contractor and look for potential problems. Look for dead or dying trees or limbs that may come down in a winter storm.

With a bit of advance planning, your winter passage will be much more carefree. Get to it! BACK

Capping & Cleaning Chimneys
One association fire safety responsibility that is often neglected is replacement of chimney caps. A chimney cap is a screened cover that attaches to the top of a chimney with set screws. An uncapped chimney admits rain that rusts metal fireboxes, flues and wood stoves. It also lets animals nest within the chimney, leading to a possible flue blockage, and allows potentially hazardous embers to escape.

Chimney caps are available at most home centers and fireplace-supply stores. Prices range from about $35 for a sheet-metal cap up to around $90 for a long-lasting stainless-steel model. Installation is quick and involves simple hand tools, provided you can safely access the roof. Chimney caps come in two different shapes - one for round flues and one for square flues - in a variety of sizes. Check your flue and measure its outside diameter before shopping.

For installation, call a chimney cleaning and repair service (also called "Chimney Sweep") and combine the job with a general flashing repair and repointing if needed.

This is also an ideal time for the association to have all chimneys inspected to ensure they are fire safety compliant. Chimney sweeps perform such inspections inexpensively and the association should schedule and pay for one for every chimney. Cleaning costs are typically a homeowner responsibility.

Chimney caps and inspection are often out of sight and out of mind until a fire breaks out. Let this reminder "spark" some action before you get "fired up". BACK

Selecting Siding
According to Today’s Homeowner magazine, tastes in siding are changing. There are basically some very practical reasons for the shift. New materials have been developed that resist rot, have higher fire resistance, require less or no paint and come with a long warranty. How do they stack up?

Brick About 21% of new homes use brick. Like the smartest of the three little pigs learned, you can huff and puff but bricks tend to stand for a long time. Cost: High     Durability: High

Vinyl 33% of new homes have vinyl siding. The product has improved immensely over the years and now carries stylish look, long warranty with added advantage of no paint required.
Cost: Medium           Durability: High

Wood  Many still use traditional wood sidings like cedar and hardboard. Maintenance is relatively high and hardboard sidings have developed a bad reputation in recent years due to premature failure.
Cost: Medium           Durability: Medium to Low

Traditional Stucco This stucco is usually applied over concrete, block or brick and has been used successfully for centuries.   Cost: High        Durability: High

Synthetic Stucco (aka EIFS-Exterior Insulation and Finishing System) became popular in the mid ‘80s as a cheaper alternative to traditional stucco. It combines a foam board which is attached to the structure, followed by a plastic mesh and then finished with a thin acrylic stucco-like coating. Since it is light weight, it can be applied on wood frame buildings. Unfortunately, EIFS has experienced many water related problems that dryrot the wood structure at an accelerated rate. EIFS requires a considerable technical expertise to install properly which few installers possess. The product rarely carries more than a 10 year warranty and even if it does, the warranty is voidable due to installation errors.   Cost: High   Durability: Questionable

Cementaceous A new generation of siding made primarily of cement is rapidly gaining popularity. It has the look of traditional wood siding yet is almost fireproof and rot resistant. Brands like Hardiplank offer 50 year warranties.    Cost: Medium         Durability: High

If your association is contemplating siding repair or replacement, consider some of the modern alternative. From the perspective of no more paint cost, vinyl is a hands down favorite. For durability and fire resistance, cementaceous siding offers good alternatives. When choosing siding, side with the best. BACK

Proper Project Planning
Winter is the time of year that the Board should be arranging and reviewing proposals for fair weather construction and renovation projects. Painting, fencing, pool replastering and roofing are but a few of the major items that fit the profile. There are several practical reasons for starting the process early:

Contractors are available.   Winter is a slow time for many contractors. This means they have the time to thoughtfully consider your work and produce a good proposal.

Better pricing.   Sometimes the work you want done can be performed during the winter months, (even certain kinds of roofing). If you agree to start the project now, you just may save a significant amount of money.

Scheduling preference. If you accept a contractor’s proposal now, you can generally call the shot as far as scheduling. Do not wait until late spring or summer...you may not make the schedule at all.

Arranging for money.   If you haven’t accumulated enough reserve money to do the work, you will need several months to discuss, approve and collect a special assessment.

Coordination with residents. If the project is extensive and disruptive, you will want to warn residents well in advance of the timing and length of it. This will give them the opportunity to work around or even plan vacations strategically.

Always get references and check them out. It is important to use only contractors that have a good track record. Make sure the references are for work that is comparable in size and complexity to yours. It is not uncommon for small contractors to get in over their head when trying to nail down work. Feel comfortable that they can deliver what they promise.

Always, always (repeat) always use contractors that are properly licensed, bonded and insured to do the work they are contracting to perform. If you have any question about requirements, contact the state licensing board. Use it.

Insist on getting a current copy of the contractor’s liability insurance coverage directly from his insurance agent and if you accept the proposal, require that the association be included on this insurance as an "additional insured" (Again, get an appropriate and current insurance certificate from the contractor’s agent to prove it)

Do not make advance payments on the project work. This is often the sign of a contractor on a "shoe string" that may be using your money to pay past labor or supply bills. You could be left high and dry with uncompleted work. Instead "progress payments" are commonly called for that pay for work completed to date. Make no more than two per month and be sure to inspect the work to verify completion. When making payments, have the contractor sign a Lien Waiver for the amount tendered. (Your attorney can provide the appropriate form or ask the state contractor’s board for a sample.) A Lien Waiver is the contractor’s promise that he has paid (or will pay) all labor and material/supply bills related to the project. Keep in mind that if your contractor "forgets" to pay his suppliers or subcontractors, those folks have the right to place a lien on association property to secure their debt. It’s a good policy to require copies of all supply, material and labor bills be attached to and referenced in the signed Lien Waiver.

For any substantial construction, it is very important to involve an attorney who can draft or review the contract. Don’t bypass this important step. There’s a lot riding on what the Board is obligating the association to.

There is much to know about proper project planning. Forget the leap of faith on this one. (The safety net just may not be there when you land.) Take the prudent steps needed to protect the association and to get a quality job done at a fair price.   BACK

Excerpts from an article by Joshua M. Henschell of www.ethosmedia.net    BACK