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Maintenance Articles |
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LP
Siding Rx This is a situation that demands creative damage (in the real sense) control. Under normal conditions and reasonable maintenance, consumers could reasonably get 50 years use out of this kind of siding. It now appears 10-20 years will be about as good as it gets, and in some cases, less. But there is some good news. If your buildings have this product in a lap siding form (and it has not failed to the point where you have no choice but to replace it), there is a preventive maintenance technique that can extend its useful life. Parker Paint offers a paint product called 2333 or 2345 Flex-Bind that when brushed onto the drip edge, followed by a 100% Acrylic Latex paint, will seal the siding and slow the delamination that commonly causes premature failure. The application technique is critical. Parker Paint advises: Pressure wash all areas from the top of the building down, so as not to blow water up behind the boards. Scrape off all loose paint left after power washing. Let siding dry one week in good weather. Check siding, bottom edges being most important, with a moisture meter to ensure that there is no more than 17% moisture content. The Flex-Bind MUST be brushed to get it pushed up into the little cracks and crevices in the edge of the boards. It should not be applied to the face of the boards. No warranties are given by Parker Paint but painting contractors say that siding where the product has been applied to Parker’s specifications do not exhibit the swelling and mushroom growth common with untreated sidings. For more information about this product, contact a Parker Paint representative in your area. Since the application is critical, it is recommended to have a Parker rep inspect the application, even if you have to pay for it, to ensure it’s done properly. LP siding and others like it have caused headaches across the country. This little prescription just may provide some much needed relief. BACK
Winterizing Your
Landscaping Irrigation Systems Irrigation systems need to be turned off and winterized. Normally, this requires turning off the irrigation timer/clock, leaving it plugged in and making sure there is a fresh battery in the clock so reprogramming in the Spring won’t be necessary. Next, the irrigation system water supplies must be turned off by finding the point of connection and turning off the "gate valve". Next, open the drain valve to allow water to drain out of the system. (If your system is installed properly, blowing out the system with compressed air is unnecessary. Blowing out is common in areas where temperatures drop well below freezing for long periods). Fertilization It is very important to winter fertilize your shrubs and lawn. Shrubs should receive a good 10-10-10 shrub fertilizer and lawns a Fall and Winter fertilizer like 10-7-14 "slow release". This blend of fertilizers will "feed" the roots of the plants without forcing new growth on the leaves. This should keep your lawn and shrubs looking green and healthy during the winter. Moss Control In damper, cooler climates, lawn moss becomes active in the Fall and Winter. Moss occurs in areas of poor drainage, much shade and heavily compacted soil. To counteract moss, prune dense trees to reduce shade, aerate lawns to relieve soil compaction, provide improved drainage in swampy areas and apply a moss control product. Correct Drainage Problems Water can become a serious problem in the Fall as the ground becomes saturated. A below ground drainage system can be installed to prevent water from accumulating in lawns and bed areas. Inspect Trees Inspect the property with your landscape contractor and look for potential problems. For example, clogged gutters can cause a lot of damage to landscapes. Look for dead or dying trees or limbs that may come down in a winter storm. With a little proactive planning your community should survive the winter and "El Nino" with no problems. BACK
Closing Your Pool Winterization goals are to keep the water properly balanced to protect the pool surface and equipment from corrosion or scale formation, to provide a treatment to keep the water looking its best all winter long, and to protect the equipment from damage. Follow these steps:
Building Value by
Preventive Maintenance So how can those associations that want to maintain their assets do so with a minimal amount of funds and energy? There are several "keys" which may assist in the maintenance journey: Get Committed The Board needs to first go on record that it is committed philosophically to preventative maintenance. Consider enacting a formal written resolution approved by the Board that mandates professional quality maintenance of the property as a foundation of this commitment. As boards change, they will be held to this standard. Get Organized Find volunteers for a Maintenance Committee. If any of have experience in construction, design, or architecture so much the better. Next, put together a job description for the Committee outlining the major responsibilities and time lines for completion of certain tasks. Develop a Component List Besides the obvious like roofs, paint, paving, etc., there may be other not-so-obvious components. Review your documents to identify all the components that your Association is obligated to maintain. If there is confusion regarding maintenance responsibility for "limited" common areas like a unit’s deck, you may wish to consult your attorney. If your community is older, you may want to do this anyway to make sure the documents conform to current laws. Amending them will clarify maintenance responsibilities that are vague or absent. Your insurance agent needs to know which components the Association will be taking responsibility for and how that might affect coverage and premiums. (Insurance coverage disputes between association and homeowners are common because of poorly written documents and failure by the Board to properly define responsibility). The key is to bring clarity and distinction to those components which will be maintained by the Association, as opposed to those maintained by the homeowners themselves. Physically Inspect the Components Many Boards have never taken the time to walk around the property on a "maintenance inspection" and those that do often do not possess the proper skills. Choose the people carefully that will perform this duty. In addition, include reputable, licensed and qualified contractors, engineer or architectural consultants, or certified building inspectors. These people have a "trained" eye which will pick up potential problems that laymen would miss. Although they may charge for their time, they will save money in the long run. Once you have completed your walk-through,
categorize all components in the following manner: Allocate the Funds The best maintenance plan in the world is useless if not properly funded. Since money comes from the operating budget and increasing the maintenance budget is not popular, it is critical to have the plan that justifies the budget. Build the budget around the maintenance program, not vice versa. Follow-up on the Work Have the Maintenance Committee or property manager do monthly (at least quarterly) inspections and put the observations in writing for the file. The report can be used as a checklist for the maintenance or landscaping people doing corrective work. Build Service Continuity Establish long term relationships with reputable service providers for continuity. Once a provider understands and provides the service you are looking for, why reinvent the wheel every time the Board changes? Check each vendor’s costs at budget time to confirm that the association is getting a competitive price. If a preventive maintenance program is implemented, the Association can not only help protect itself from unscheduled special assessments, but will enhance the unit values as well. The purpose of preventive maintenance is to spend some money now to save a lot later. It is a legacy deeply appreciated by those that follow. BACK
Watt Savings! 1. Do the bulbs provide enough light for security and safety? Fortunately, there is a handy solution that maximizes utility while minimizing cost called Compact Fluorescent bulbs. They come in many sizes and shapes that fit your existing fixtures. Let’s do a little comparison between Incandescent Bulbs [IB] and Compact Fluorescents Bulbs [CF] and be amazed. Exterior garage, entry and porch lights are often lit by 60W IBs with an average life of 750 hours versus a 13W CF that has a life of 10,000 hours (13 times more). Used 12 hours a day, an IB will last about 2 months while a CF lasts over 2 years. Let’s assume that exterior lights burn 4380 hours a year (12 hours/day average). An IB will use 262 kilowatts versus 57 kilowatts for the CF. At 6¢/kilowatt hour (Portland area power cost) that’s an energy cost of $15.78/year versus $3.42 (a $12.36 per bulb savings/year). Multiply the total number of 60W IBs times $12.36 you have and be impressed at the savings. For example, if there are 100 bulbs, the annual energy savings is over $1200! While CFs are more expensive than IBs (around $4 each versus 50¢) the extra long life, reduced bulb changes and brighter light more than make up for the cost difference. Watt a difference! BACK
Right Roofing Asphalt Shingles hold an overwhelming share of the U.S. roofing market. Most asphalt shingles are fiberglass reinforced which consist of a fiberglass mat with a top and bottom layer of asphalt and mineral granules. Zinc or copper granules are applied to asphalt shingles to protect against algae growth. While 3 Tab style shingles have been very popular, "Architectural" style (mimics a wood shake look) has become increasingly popular. Asphalt shingles are available in 25-50 year warranties depending on the thickness. Most roofing materials are categorized as UL Class A, B, or C, A being the most fire resistant followed by B and C. Most fiberglass shingles have a Class A fire rating. Wood Shingles and Shakes are made from cedar, redwood, southern pine and other woods. Shingles are machine-sawn; shakes are hand-hewn and rougher looking. Their natural look is popular in California, Northwest and Midwest. Things to consider: they have a UL fire rating of Class B, C or none at all, and they should be treated with a preservative every three to five years to prevent decay. In other words, they are high maintenance. Clay or Concrete Tile is a durable but fairly expensive roofing material. "Mission-style" and "Spanish" round-topped tiles are widely used in the Southwest and Florida, and flat styles also are available to create French and English looks. Tile is available in a variety of colors and finishes. Note: Tile is heavy so if you are replacing a lighter roofing with tile, you will need to verify that the structure will support the load. Slate is quarried in Vermont, New York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Canada. It comes in different colors and grades, depending on its origin. While extremely durable, it is more expensive than other roofing materials and its application requires skill and experience. Many old homes in the Northeast still are protected by this long-lasting roofing material. Metal Roofing is a normally commercial roofing material that works in some residential settings. Some metal shingles are constructed to simulate traditional roofs like wood shakes, shingles and tile. Apart from metal roofing's longevity, metal shingles are relatively lightweight, typically have a Class A fire rating, have a greater resistance to adverse weather and can be quite aesthetically pleasing. Synthetic Roofing simulates slate, wood shingles and shakes. Visit a building that is roofed with that product before making a buying decision. Aside from product choices, the roofer’s experience level is critical to the installation. Check references and the product warranty carefully. Product warranties often have "loopholes" for installation problems. If possible, use an installer that is certified by the manufacturer. This way, no matter what the problem, you’re covered. Choose the "right" roofing weighing aesthetics, cost, durability, warranty and maintenance. The last thing you want is your residents singing "Raindrops Are Fallin’ on My Head". BACK
Watering Wisely Compost, mulch and barkdust hold water like a sponge, slowly releasing moisture when plants need it. In this environment, plants grow deep roots, reducing how much and how often sprinkling and fertilizing is needed. If your planting beds are bare dirt, consider an application of these recommended amendments to promote root growth, reduce water consumption and reduce weed infestation. Also leave grass clippings to build up mulched soil that uses less water. Wash your plants Airborne urban pollution can leave a layer of residue on plants and soil that inhibits water absorption. One easy way to counteract this is by spraying the planting beds and turf down using a hose end sprayer filled with inexpensive liquid dishwashing soap. As strange as it sounds, it actually breaks up the residue and reduces water tension, allowing better water absorption. Sprinkler Tune-Up Adjust all your sprinkler heads to irrigate living things, not walks and driveways. Replace leaky faucets and broken sprinkler heads. Water turf areas about 1" a week. Sprinkler Enhancements Install a rain sensor to override the automatic sprinkling system when it rains. Where possible, install drip irrigation systems to trees, shrubs and flowers. Gets water directly where it’s needed. If you are using hoses to irrigate, install hose timers to control the flow. Xeriscape Your Plants Xeriscape refers to creative, attractive landscaping that provides a diversity of seasonal colors and textures while reducing outdoor water use by 30 to 50 percent. Nurseries carry numerous trees, shrubs, perennials and ground covers which are low water-using. Visit them and ask for suggestions. Wildflower Extravaganza A typical landscape can be up to 90 percent Kentucky bluegrass lawn. Bluegrass requires 25 to 30 inches of water each growing season. Confine lawn to high traffic areas. Instead, wildflowers and native grasses make excellent lawn substitutes, especially in large open spaces and low use areas. Planting a variety of plants with different heights, colors and textures creates interest and beauty. Watering wisely creates a healthier landscape and reduces one of the community’s most costly budget items. This is one area where your investment will pay BIG dividends. Water on!...rather, water off! BACK
Annual Maintenance
Review At the roof line, scrutinize the chimney caps. Are any missing or rusted through that need replacing? Make a note by location. Next, look at the chimney chases (enclosures). The section above the roof line gets more weather than the sheltered part and the siding often needs repair or repainting. Next, check out the roof, if it’s the kind you can see from the ground. Anything obvious that needs repaired or cleaned? Note any areas that have moss buildup so that moss killer can be applied during the summer. Since it’s difficult to truly assess roofing condition from the ground and dangerous to be "mountain goating" on the roof, it’s highly recommended that you have a roofing contractor do the roof and flashing inspection. They have the knowledge, equipment and guts to do it right. Finally, the gutters and downspouts probably need a post winter cleaning. Now, on to the siding and trim. Any popped nails that need to be resecured? Check the caulking joints around the windows, doors and trim. More than likely some have opened up and need recaulking. Any paint peeling? In particular check the south sides or those likely to receive more weather. Scrape bad areas, prime and spot paint, unless you are planning a project wide painting. Do you have synthetic stucco (EIFS-Exterior Insulation Finishing System)? An annual inspection by a trained inspector is highly recommended. EIFS hides and promotes dryrot that often cannot be detected by visual observation. Special moisture scanning equipment is required. Decks should be checked for dryrot and negative drainage or ponding. Look underneath at the deck, supporting posts and joists and use a small screwdriver to probe for dryrot. Check the deck fences and rails. Replace bad wood as needed. Check the points of connection to the building since this is often incorrectly done and provides a point of water intrusion. Check flashing at sliding glass doors, again, a likely point of leakage. Next, take a look at the grounds. For asphalt, the best time to do the sealcoating and general repairs is in warm, dry weather. Don't forget to repaint curbs and parking spaces. Walk the concrete walks and look for tripping hazards caused by lifted, cracked or sunken slabs. Note the locations and get those areas ground down or removed and repoured. Moss and algae growth can cause slipping hazards. Treat or pressure wash as needed. This is particularly important in senior communities. Next, on to fencing. Winter rains can change existing grade contours. Other than the posts, there should be no earth to wood contact which will promote dryrot and insect infestation. Check the posts to make sure they are solid and replace any that are dryrotted. Use only metal, redwood, cedar or pressure treated posts. Look for signs of sprinkler overspray on fences and have your landscaper adjust spray heads accordingly. Check common area lighting for broken, cracked, or rusting fixtures. Consider upgrading older incandescent lighting to more efficient high pressure sodium, metal halide, halogen or fluorescent. The light levels will increase dramatically and the power bills will plummet. Look for evidence of water ponding around building foundations. Fill and regrade for positive drainage. Ponding on walkways can be cured by clearing ground drains or installing drain tile pipe to carry water away. Clean out ground and storm drains. Walk the common area landscaping with your landscape contractor and make a "punch list" of items needing attention. The sprinkler system should be checked for broken pipes, missing or broken heads, and clogged valves. Splash blocks can be added where downspouts dump into landscaped areas. Look for wet, spongy areas in the lawn indicative of drainage problems. If severe enough, the contractor can install drain tile pipe to dry the area out. Check for bare spots or pests in the lawn and ground cover. Trees are one of your biggest assets and should be closely inspected at least every three years by an arborist. Look for split and broken branches, disease and overgrowth that require knowledgeable "corrective" care. Don’t rely on your landscape contractor who usually only contracts to do "maintenance pruning" to keep limbs off the buildings and walkways. Inspect the pool and spa with the pool maintenance contractor. How’s the plaster? Are the railings and coping stones loose? Are there potential trip hazards? Is it time to rebuild the sauna? Don't forget to do a safety check of the playground equipment. Springing into action takes planning. First make a list of the problem areas and prioritize repairs. Don’t delay contacting contractors since their "dance cards" fill quickly this time of year. Do your Spring Thing today! BACK
Defective Siding Alert There are a number of brands of lap (long horizontal boards) and panel (large vertical sheets) siding that have similar problems. Masonite is one of the more widely used hardboard sidings and found on an estimated 4.3 million structures in the United States built since 1980. Louisiana Pacific, ABTCO and Georgia Pacific also make hardboard sidings with similar failures. Look for these signs of damage: > Swelling along the edges. In 1994, a class action was filed against the Masonite Corporation. In 1997, the jury found in favor of the plaintiffs and in January 1998, a multi-million dollar settlement was approved for all qualified owners. The terms of the settlement allows the Masonite Corporation to halt the claims process in the year 2005. Qualifying owners with damaged siding can apply for an independent inspection and a settlement based upon the results. This process can be completed in 3-6 months depending on the size of the structures and number of buildings. Other siding manufactures have entered into settlements fashioned in part around the Masonite settlement. Louisiana Pacific, maker of LP Inner Seal Siding, and ABTCO have settlements available or pending. Unfortunately unlike the Masonite settlement which will pay all qualified applications until the end of the settlement period, other settlements are limited by funding or scope of what is covered. "Siding Claims Specialist" companies like Home Siding Claims assist owners with the settlement process which guarantee fair treatment and monitoring of the claims process. There are many homeowner association structures with defective siding and the clock is ticking on filing claims. To gather information on the Internet, start with www.sidingclaims.com for pictures, hints and application instructions. Some settlement sites: Masonite Siding Claims 800/330-2722 www.masoniteclaims.com © Copyright by Regenesis.net |