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EIFS Tsunami
A new tidal wave of construction defect claims is rising involving a siding material called Exterior Insulation and Insulation Systems (EIFS). EIFS looks like conventional stucco and is often called "synthetic" stucco.

Styrofoam like insulation board is attached to the building plywood or drywall sheathing. A fiberglass mesh is then attached that receives a "base coat". A stucco-like colored finish coat is then applied to the base coat to complete the process.

EIFS has been used on an estimated 250,000 American homes over the past 30 years. It’s been sold claiming a superior insulation value, ease of architectural detailing and installation, and low maintenance requirements. It is also cheaper to apply than conventional stucco.

However, significant dry rot and mold growth can result if moisture gets trapped between the EIFS and building sheathing. Window, door and other penetrations are particularly vulnerable. Once saturated, the sheathing, wood studs and structural members rot away, often without visible signs of damage from either inside or outside of the building. The rotted wood becomes a breading ground for bacteria and may subject the occupants to health hazards.

Much attention has been focused on the EIFS problem in the SE United States, including a televised NBC Dateline feature story last year. The problem is now looming in the Pacific Northwest and other wet climate regions. EIFS related litigation is mounting in the courts. Claims have been made against EIFS manufacturers, general contractors, subcontractors, framers and roofers.

EIFS manufacturers are blamed for marketing an inherently defective product and for failing to inform the construction industry that EIFS must be applied perfectly to resist water intrusion ("workmanlike performance", the standard for construction work, is something less than perfect). Two EIFS manufacturers have settled a national EIFS class action lawsuit. Other class action suits are pending.

In addition, general contractors fail to supervise subcontractors to ensure proper installation. Many subcontractors are inept at proper installation. Framers and roofers fail to properly "flash" (term used to describe waterproofing techniques) roofs, windows, doors and other penetrations to deflect rainwater.

While most EIFS cases have settled out of court, this wave of litigation is yet to crest. McDonalds franchisees have brought a lawsuit in North Carolina to recover water damage to 65 restaurants. With very expensive repairs hanging in the balance, it is more likely that commercial cases will be fully litigated and appealed to create legal precedence for other courts to follow.

It is highly advisable to have annual inspections done by trained EIFS inspectors who use high tech moisture scanning equipment. There is a time limit for filing suit so don’t let this "wave" wash you away. For more information on this subject, go to www.eifsinfo.net

Source: Construction Reporter by Smith, Freed, Chock & Eberhard  BACK


You Dirty Rat!
Few pests evoke stronger revulsion than rodents. While the manager of an industrial facility may tolerate an occasional rat, not so with homeowner associations. The demand for action is immediate...I mean NOW!

Most people would agree that rodents have limited value. Norway rats, roof rats and common house mice live off humans and give nothing in return but the potential for spreading serious diseases by way of fleas and ticks like The Plague. They consume or contaminate about 20% of the world’s food supply. They also like to gnaw, causing expensive structural damage and electrical fires.

Rodents are predictable so a control expert can detect clues pointing to suitable control techniques and when to use them. A successful rodent control program features four key elements:

1) Inspection. This determines the cause of the problem, the species and conditions contributing to the infestation.

2) Proper Sanitation. Trash should be kept in tightly closed containers. Debris and possible nesting materials should be swept up and food items stored in rodent proof containers. Weeds and brush should be trimmed back from buildings.

3) Rodent Proofing The best way to keep buildings rodent free is to prevent them from getting inside. Rodents fit through tiny openings and gnaw through wood, lead, aluminum, copper, cinder block and even concrete. Broken screens around foundation walls are common entry sites as well as damaged siding, chimney caps, open fireplace flues and broken windows.

4) Population Reduction. Where allowed, rodenticides provide the most cost effective rodent control. Modern applications provide a lethal dose in a single day’s feeding. Correct bait placement is key to protection for children, pets and non-target animals.

Effective rodent control should be part of an Integrated Pest Management program. Maintaining high sanitation and an exclusion program are the keys to success.  For more information on controlling pests, see ProvenEcologicalPestControl    BACK


Deterring Dryrot
While fungi are considered a delicacy when found on your plate, when found in wood, they cause dryrot, a wood "cancer". And like cancer, it's best to avoid the conditions that cause it. In the case of structures, the culprits are improper materials, flashing and design.

Dryrot’s name is a misnomer because the rot occurs in wet conditions, not dry. It occurs when water is allowed to penetrate wood in places and in a way where it won't dry out. Wood destroying fungi require a food source, oxygen and favorable temperature in order to survive. It’s a vicious circle: Moisture promotes fungi which increases wood permeability which allows moisture to penetrate further which encourages more decay, etc. etc.

There are three classes of dryrot:
Brown Rot  
Wood decayed by brown rot looks like dry leather and breaks easily into small cubical pieces. Wood strength decreases as the growth spreads. Most of the damage to structures is caused by brown rot.

White Rot   Wood decayed by white rot often assumes a bleached appearance, frequently has black lines through it and feels spongy. Wood strength decreases gradually. If caught soon enough, white rot may be treated by bleach spray and scraped away. It is important to correct the moisture problem that caused the wet wood in the first place.

Soft Rot   This looks like brown rot but the affected wood softens gradually from the surface inward developing cavities (invisible to the naked eye) within the wood cell walls.

Four Principles of Dryrot Prevention
1. Build with properly seasoned wood.
2. Keep wood dry.
3. Break contact of wood and soil.
4. Where soil must contact wood, use properly pressure treated lumber.

The odor of mold and mildew inside the home is a sure sign of condensation and dryrot. Warm weather condensation can be reduced with fans and by decreasing the humidity of crawl spaces with adequate ventilation.

When mold and decay occur, the problem is either water conducting dryrot or dryrot growing on wet wood. Water conducting dryrot feels leathery and can often be peeled off in sheets. The other form of dryrot feels powdery or stringy. The only way to get rid of molds and decay fungi embedded in wood is to remove the piece. Frequently extracting a rotted structural piece can be an expensive proposition. Prevention is far cheaper. continued...

A common source of dryrot is wood decks. Decks themselves should be made of either cedar, redwood, sunwood or pressure treated lumber which all resist dryrot. The deck should have at least a 1/2" air gap between it and the siding that allows water to run down between. The deck should have positive drainage away from the building. The deck door should have proper flashing to prevent water intrusion. Indoor/outdoor carpet should be removed from the deck during the rainy or winter season since it traps moisture and promotes dryrot.

Windows and doors are a prime location for dryrot due to improper flashing and caulking. They all should have drip flashing over the top edge and proper caulking around all edges. Where there is more than a 1/4" gap, backer rod (flexible foam rope) should be laid into the gap and then sealed with a high quality silicon caulk.

Another major source of water intrusion that promotes dryrot is improper "kick-out" flashing. Kick-out flashing is found near the rain gutter where the roof meets a vertical wall. It "kicks out" rain water which runs along the vertical wall that would often miss the gutter and run behind the siding and get trapped in the wall. Missing kick-out flashing can cause huge dryrot damage. Have a competent roofing contractor check your roofs for proper flashing.

Avoid EIFS-Exterior Insulation Finishing System (also called "synthetic stucco" or "dryvit") like the plague. It is the siding that uses a foam board and specialty shapes followed by a plastic mesh and finally a coating that resembles stucco. It has a long history of trapping moisture in the walls and causing dryrot. If your buildings have EIFS, it should be inspected annually by a qualified EIFS inspection service using moisture scanning equipment. For more, go to The EIFS Institute

Finally, do an annual inspection of all siding, trim and decks to detect dryrot in its early stages. Since it spreads like cancer, the sooner you remove it, the less costly the correction.

Deterrent is the best policy when it comes to dryrot. Declare war on your dryrot and never, never, never, never, never, NEVER give up.    BACK


Paint a Montana Sky
Have you ever stood awestruck by a Montana sunset? Firey gold dissolves to a burnt orange chased by a sultry red sliding into fleeting blue followed by swarming purple all sprinkled with a twinkle of starlight.  It leaves you speechless...

Color is a wonderful and inspiring gift. Using paint to color your community can provide a profound and uplifting psychological boost to the residents. Artfully chosen, color can turn a dungeon into a delight and a stuck-in-the past look into a liberating trend setter. Here are some thoughts.

Create Space Off whites and pale pastels can be used to create a larger-than-life effect on exterior facades. Because light colors don't assert themselves, they open spaces. This is why white ceilings create an expansive feeling.

Outline for emphasis To accent architectural details, paint them with a color that contrasts the background and immediately draws the eye. Exterior features like railings and window peaks are good candidates for such emphasis.

Hide Flaws Just as color can accent, it can also camouflage. To make unwanted architectural distractions disappear, simply paint them the same color as the walls. Misplaced doors vanish quickly when treated like an extension of the wall they interrupt. By painting them the same color, the eye doesn't have as compelling a reason to stop and dwell, so it searches for a contrasting element.

No Rules There are no hard, fast rules for paint and color selection, just general guidelines. It’s best to work with a quality paint supplier with in-house design consultants who can maximize product and color capabilities. They are often willing to prepare color boards with alternate choices for the Board’s or owners’ consideration. at no extra charge. They can also recommend reliable painting contractors which work well with homeowner associations.

Paint color options are as numerous as the stars in a Montana night sky. Consider the rainbow of possibilities as you approach your next major painting project.    BACK


Paint Preparedness
Is your association preparing to paint? If so, should you use an elastomeric, acrylic latex or oil alkyd paint? Will a certain primer make the finish coat last longer? Can you deter mildew? What about a warranty? Who will inspect the painter’s workmanship?

If you are not a painting expert, it’s prudent to start with a major paint supplier before calling any contractors. A knowledgeable consultant will help select color options, provide a manufacturer approved set of specifications and oversee the contractor's work. The specs ensure a well executed paint job and validate the warranty. Best of all, these services are offered FREE in exchange for providing the paint.

After contacting the paint supplier rep, a site inspection is the first order of business. The rep will evaluate the current condition of the paint and surfaces plus identify existing and potential problem areas. With this information, the specs will be developed which include the preparation techniques, primer, finish coat and application instructions for each type of surface.

After acceptance of these specifications by the Board, it’s time to solicit bids. The specifications will expedite the bidding process and ensure that all proposals received are for equal work and like materials (apples to apples). To do otherwise, requires comparing incongruous proposals and likely voiding the material warranty.

Once the contractor is selected, the specifications should be a condition of the contract. When the work commences, it becomes the paint company’s job to monitor the contractor's work to ensure compliance with the specs. Progress inspections should be completed after cleaning, sealing, priming, patching and painting...before the contractor is allowed to proceed. Your consultant will also prepare a final punch list for the contractor. The job isn't finished until he is satisfied that the specs are completed and a warranty can be issued.

Insist that you receive partial lien releases from the contractor with each progress payment and a final lien release upon payment in full. To make sure the paint supplier gets paid, issue a check payable to both the contractor and supplier or purchase the paint separately. Buying the paint directly and having it delivered guarantees you get what you bargained for.

Your paint supplier is your ally so work closely and prepare early. If you plan a summer project, start in early winter. Contractors are easier to deal with and you often will get better pricing and scheduling. Paint on!    BACK


Start to Finish Contracting
Your community may be faced with a large siding, dryrot or structural repair. These projects often involve a number of trades like carpentry, electrical, plumbing and engineering that must be properly combined for a satisfactory outcome. If the scope of work is large, it makes sense to use the services of a professional Construction Manager (CM). Here are some of the reasons:

Speak the Same Lingo Contractors prefer to work with people who understand their trade. Making a profit depends on maximum production and efficiency from a work crew. CMs speak "Contractorese".

Good Specifications A good CM provides the kind of specifications that allows subcontractors to be more price competitive. When dealing with laymen like homeowners, it’s common for subs to add a margin to compensate for potential problems resulting from inadequate specs.

Getting Material You Bargained For. Occasionally materials get "mistakenly" delivered to another job site or arrive in a lesser quality than ordered. Consider having your CM buy the materials direct and have them delivered to the job site. The CM will ensure you get what you ordered.

A Good Contract Include contract clauses that keep costly change orders to a minimum such as:

1. Time frame for job completion.
2. Penalties for failing to meet the deadline.
3. Hours when work may be performed.
4. Requirement for liability and workers compensation insurance.
5. Quality checks prior to payment.
6. Progress payments based on work completed.
7. 10% holdback pending final review.

Don’t Advance Funds Associations managing their own projects, large or small, often fall into the trap of advancing money prior to work being done. Prepayment is a red flag. Contractors that require prepayment are often in financial straits or do not have adequate credit to purchase the materials needed for the job. Occasionally, contractors disappear with the money or pay another job’s bills with it. There can be exceptions to this rule, like purchasing custom built windows or installing special order materials. If this is the reason for prepayment, have the materials delivered to the jobsite and pay the bill directly.

Lien Releases Lien releases are written and signed statements from the contractor that warrants all employees, subcontractors and suppliers involved in the job have been paid. Employees, subcontractors and suppliers have the legal right to file a lien on the property to which their labor or materials is attached. Don’t tender payment without exchanging it for a lien release that transfers this liability to the contractor. Writing the check to both the contractor and supplier is additional insurance that it won’t come back to haunt you.

Scheduling CMs handle the complex scheduling of various trades to ensure smooth job progress. Understanding the sequence of construction events is essential. CMs aren’t afraid to apply pressure to speed up slow contractors, (contractorese is "kicking butt").

Hold Back It’s common to withhold 10% of the total contract pending completion of a "punchlist" gathered as result of a walkthrough by the contractor and CM. Don’t release funds unless satisfied that the job is complete.

Construction managers are masters in piecing together complex projects and getting the best value for your money. There is too much at stake to risk trying to do this yourself. Don’t go down this road without one. Get a Construction Manager involved in the planning stages to run the project from start to finish.    BACK


Art of Tree Pruning
Trees are living artwork that decorate the common area. They are beautiful and soothe the soul but are constantly changing. Like all living things, they need care and attention. Trees are pruned to produce an effect in the landscape - that's the "art" side of pruning. Understanding and being able the tree’s growth and health response to pruning is the "science" side.

When done properly, pruning can improve a tree's appearance as well as increase its life expectancy. Proper pruning opens the canopy of the tree to permit more air movement and sunlight penetration. Done improperly, pruning can decrease the tree’s life expectancy or even kill it. Because trees are living organisms, they can be profoundly affected by pruning practices.

The American National Standards Institute’s criteria for tree pruning called "ANSI A300" was adopted in 1995. It should be followed in all pruning situations and geographic areas.

Making Cuts Branches should be removed with thinning cuts. A thinning cut either removes a branch at its point of origin or shortens it back to a lateral branch that is large enough to assume the terminal role.

Branches should not be removed with heading or topping cuts. A heading cut is when a currently growing or one-year-old shoot is cut back to a bud, or when a larger limb is cut back to a stub or a lateral that is not big enough to assume the terminal role. Heading should not be used in shade and ornamental tree pruning, since it forces the growth of sprouts that are weakly attached to the parent stem. Drastic heading can kill the tree outright.

Branch Size A minimum or maximum diameter size of branches to be removed should be specified in all pruning operations. This establishes how much pruning is to be done.

Pruning Objectives Pruning objectives should be established prior to beginning any pruning operation. A300 provides two basic objectives.

Hazard Reduction Pruning Hazard reduction pruning is recommended when the primary objective is to reduce the danger to a specific target caused by visibly defined hazards in a tree. For example, hazard reduction pruning may be the primary objective if a tree had many dead limbs over a park bench.

Maintenance Pruning Maintenance pruning is recommended when the primary objective is to maintain or improve tree health and structure, and includes hazard-reduction pruning. An example here might be to perform a maintenance pruning operation on a front yard tree.

Pruning Types Hazard reduction pruning and maintenance pruning should consist of one or more of the pruning types noted below.

Crown Cleaning consists of the selective removal of one or more of the following items: dead, dying, or diseased branches, weak branches and water sprouts.

Crown Thinning is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration, air movement, and reduce weight.

Crown raising consists of the removal of the lower branches of a tree to provide clearance.

Crown reduction, also called crown shaping, decreases the height and/or spread of a tree. Consideration should be given to the ability of a species to sustain this type of pruning.

Vista pruning is selective thinning of framework limbs or specific areas of the crown to allow a view of an object from a predetermined point.

Crown restoration pruning should improve the structure, form and appearance of trees which have been severely headed, vandalized, or storm damaged.

When you contract with an arborist for When you contract a company for tree care, you should obtain a written commitment that, "All pruning shall be done in accordance with the ANSI A300 standard for tree pruning." This means:

  • Proper cuts will be made.

  • Spikes won’t be used to climb. Spikes are injurious to the living tree and should only be used in emergency situations, when the tree is being removed or when the tree has very thick bark.

  • Not more than 1/4 of the foliage of the canopy or individual limbs should be removed in any one season.

  • When pruning is completed, at least ½ of the foliage should remain evenly distributed in the lower 2/3 of the canopy.

Trees are one of a homeowner association’s biggest assets and need to be treated with respect and care. Use only a trained arborist and budget in your reserve plan for recommended pruning.   Excerpts taken from International Society of Arboriculture.   BACK

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