Maintenance Articles

Prune Planning
Deciduous (leafing) trees require periodic and proper pruning to keep them healthy and beautiful. Timing for pruning varies according to species. There are several pruning motivations that apply to all:

1) The basic framework of a tree should be established when it is young through the elimination of double trunks, weak crotches and interfering branches.
2) Dead, diseased or broken branches should be promptly removed.
3) Lower branches are sometimes removed from trees to provide clearance for foot or vehicular traffic or to create a feeling of spaciousness.
4) Trees that have suffered root loss through transplanting or construction activity require pruning to bring their leaf area into a proper relationship with the reduced root system.

In general, the ideal pruning time is while the trees are dormant just before new growth in spring. Pruning wounds heal most quickly at this time of year. Usually there is also less chance of damage to turf and other plantings during the dormant season.

Some trees "bleed" or exude sap from pruning wounds when pruned in spring. For this reason, maples, birches, elms, and black walnuts are usually pruned after leafing in the spring.

These of some of the basic pruning fundamentals:
1) Always make pruning cuts at a bud or at an adjoining side branch so that no branch stubs remain. Stubs die back which prevents healing of the pruning wound and allows disease organisms to gain entry into healthy tissue.
2) When removing large branches, make an initial undercut (bottom side of branch) to reduce the possibility of tearing the bark as the branch falls from the tree.
3) The application of pruning paints or dressings to pruning cuts is of minor value to wound healing. Don’t use them.
4) Use a competent arborist to prune large shade trees. They have the skill and the equipment to safely perform "off the ground" pruning operations.

Trees are one of the community’s most valuable assets. Make sure to budget and plan for cyclical pruning as a part of a reserve plan. To evaluate the timing and cost of these cycles, contact a knowledgeable arborist or tree service. BACK

Winterization Checklist
The Association needs to take winter precautions for the common areas, especially in the northern climates. Residents have responsibilities as well. Here is a timely checklist to provide to residents:

Vent Blocks - If placing vent blocks in the foundation vents under your unit is your responsibility, please do this making sure they are installed tightly.

Outside Faucet Shut-Offs - Locate and shut off the water to your outside faucet if you have one. Water shut-off valves are usually near the point where pipes enter your unit, possibly the laundry area, kitchen, bathroom or near hot water heater.

Planning an Extended Absence? If you plan to be away, have someone periodically inspect your unit, especially if there is a prolonged cold spell. Set set your thermostat no lower than 55 .

Leave Sink Cupboard Doors - Open When temperatures drop below freezing, leave cupboard doors open under kitchen and bathroom sinks to keep pipes warm.

Pipe Thawing - If the pipes freeze, use a hair dryer, hot water or wait until the weather moderates. When the pipes thaw, listen for water running in the pipes when the faucet is turned off. If you do, there may be a broken water line, and this should be reported to the board or management so appropriate action can be taken.

Snow & Ice Conditions - Keep a supply of an ice melt product handy (no salt or kitty litter). Keep a broom and snow shovel handy to keep your steps and walkways clear of snow.

Check Your Insurance - Consult with your insurance agent to see that your content coverage is adequate. The Association's insurance will not cover loss of or damage to your personal property.

Landlords - Post this notice in a visible location within the unit for your tenant’s reference. BACK

Call the Hose Brigade!
There’s an off color expression claiming "&%#! runs downhill". I don’t know about &%#!, but water surely does. In a single hour, a broken washing machine hose can leak up to 500 gallons of water. Consider the damage this could do, especially in a multilevel or highrise condominium building. To avoid catastrophe, circulate a notice annually to all residents reminding them to inspect their washing machine hoses for soft spots, brittleness near connections, kinks and blocked water flow. If any of these conditions exist, hoses should be replaced as soon as possible. If the hoses have been in place for more than five years, it’s a good idea to replace them as a preventive measure. The hoses cost under $10 and are easily installed. Once the new hoses are installed, hang a tag on them with the installation date for future reference. BACK

Politics of Trees
One of the most controversial issues that face a community is tree removal. While there are many practical reasons to remove trees, some residents take a deeply personal interest in their fate. It is the the Practical versus the Emotional. Let’s explore the dynamics of this phenomena.

In a new development, the builder often selects trees for visual appeal, rapid growth and ease of maintenance. The trees are young and occupy a relatively small area. Over time, these trees do what trees do, get bigger and denser. With size comes maintenance problems like:

1. Tree debris that clogs the gutters
2. Branches that damage roof and siding
3. Branches that obscure security lighting or vision, a safety issue
4. Overcrowding that promotes plant and tree diseases
5. Roots in the sewer lines that causes backups and flooding
6. Shading that promotes moss and algae growth
7. Tree roots that lift sidewalks or crack asphalt
8. Trees that block views

The cost of tree "damage control" can easily get to a point where removal may need to be considered. From a strictly dollars and cents point of view, the cost to remove a tree versus ongoing maintenance costs is a no brainer. In most cases, several hundred dollars in removal cost will often save thousands of dollars in maintenance or damage. However, the politics of removal should not be ignored.

Emotions run high about tree removal and opinions often run 180 degrees apart. A resident that complains of debris in the gutters and lobbies for removal is often countered by another that loves looking at the lush foliage. And let’s face it, trees don’t happen overnight. There are those that feel that killing such an enduring life form is morally wrong and that people should adapt to the changing tree environment.

An issue like this is best handled by an informed democratic process: First, hire an certified arborist to inspect and make written recommendations about the trees in question. This step is invaluable since the Board now has "expert" input into the process that often offers alternatives to removal. Second, flag trees with bright surveyor tape for easy identification.

Next, send a written notice to all owners which includes the location of the trees and the reasons for removal. It’s important to include all owners because tree removal is a philosophical issue that impacts more than those in the immediate vicinity of the removals. The notice should allow at least a 30 day review period during which the Board accepts written comments before making a final decision. If there are numerous trees involved, it is prudent to hold a special owner meeting to discuss the issue. Let concerned owners vent. Remember, this is a hot topic.

Once the Board has gathered opinions, decision time is at hand. Before moving ahead, keep in mind that many cities require removal permits. Tree companies don’t always comply with the law, so check with your local City Hall before proceeding. Also, a lone dissident owner or even renter may file a complaint with the City road blocking the removal process. This doesn’t necessarily kill the process but will involve another level of review that will delay it. Finally, make sure all pruning alternatives have been considered. For example, view removals can often be cured by "window" pruning that can often satisfy view blockage complaints.

The politics of tree removals give the Board an opportunity to show true leadership and sensitivity. Trees are one of the community’s most valuable assets. A good board politician will earn a vote of confidence if this issue is handled carefully. BACK

Batten Down Your Landscape
Before you get too mesmerized by Indian Summer, remember that the storm’s a’coming and there are some important prewinter preparations yet to get done.

Irrigation Systems need to be turned off and winterized. This requires turning off the irrigation clock, leaving it plugged in and making sure there is a fresh battery in the clock so reprogramming in the Spring won’t be necessary. Next, the irrigation system water supplies must be turned off by finding the point of connection and turning off the gate valve. Next, open the drain valve to allow water to drain out of the system. (If your system is installed properly, blowing out the system with compressed air is unnecessary. Blowing out is common in areas where temperatures drop well below freezing for long periods).

Fertilization It is very important to winter fertilize your shrubs and lawn. Shrubs should receive a good 10-10-10 shrub fertilizer and lawns a Fall and Winter fertilizer like 10-7-14 "slow release". This blend of fertilizers will "feed" the roots of the plants without forcing new growth on the leaves. This should keep your lawn and shrubs looking green and healthy during the winter.

Moss Control Lawn moss becomes active in the Fall and Winter. Moss occurs in areas of poor drainage, much shade and heavily compacted soil. To counteract moss, prune dense trees to reduce shade, aerate lawns to relieve soil compaction, provide improved drainage in swampy areas and apply a moss control product.

Clogged Gutters Gutter overflow can cause a lot of damage to landscapes. Schedule now to have your gutters cleaned after the leaves fall [usually by mid December]

Correct Drainage Problems Water can become a serious problem in the Fall as the ground becomes saturated. A below ground drainage system can be installed to prevent water from accumulating in lawns and bed areas.

Inspect Trees Inspect the trees with a tree care service or landscape contractor and look for potential problems. Look for dead or dying trees or limbs that may come down in a winter storm.

Batten down the landscape hatches now by giving your landscape what it needs to weather the winter storms. It will take off when warm weather comes and you’ll reap the rewards. BACK

Roofing Q&A
Question: I am the treasurer for a condominium association in Redmond WA. We are in dire need of replacing our roofs and need to make an assessment on our owners to cover the costs. We are thinking about changing roof type to save money. We are thinking about offering a payment option but we need to make sure we get the money we need to cover the costs. How do other condo associations handle this issue?

Answer: Special assessments are unfair because prior owners have not contributed to the costs. I recommend that all associations have a 30 year capital reserve study done that provides a funding plan for major maintenance items like roofs.

There is more than price that goes into a roofing decision. What kind of roof do you currently have? Do the owners not like the type or color? Is it a maintenance problem? What kind of longevity or warranty do the alternative roofs have? From an appearance standpoint, changing roof types (like paint colors) is highly emotional and should be handled carefully. Changes should be discussed in open meetings with samples available for show and tell. Experts should be available to comment on the relative merits of each. Consider inviting someone like an architect to comment. The opinion is less likely to be biased. Also discuss possible impact on the market values by asking input from local real estate agents.

Does the association have the money to pay for the new roofs now? If not, will the payment plan produce the money when needed? If a payment plan is allowed, remember that each payment is a potential collection problem. For this reason, I usually recommend against payment plans. Second mortgages, lines of credit and credit cards are usually available to owners to raise the necessary money. The association should become a lender only as a last resort. If a payment plan is approved, the interest charged should be high enough to put the association's payment at the top of the bill paying stack.

Question: I live in a condominium and a roof leak damaged my ceilings. Should the association repair the damage?

Answer: If the association is responsible for roof maintenance and is negligent in keeping the roof in good repair and your unit gets damaged, the association should pay for repairs to your ceiling. If, however, the roof leaks and the board or management has it repaired as soon as possible by a qualified repairman, the association would pay only for the roof and repairs to other common elements of the building but not to the interior finishes a unit.

The key word is "negligence". Negligence would apply if the association did not respond or ordered minimal repairs which allowed the leaks to continue. As long as response is timely and adequate, negligence does not apply. BACK

Constructive Construction
Whether your community association is old or new, your board of directors is probably facing some sort of construction or renovation work. Managers and directors alike need to work efficiently, ensuring construction projects are performed constructively. Successful jobs depend greatly on the time spent planning the job. From resurfacing the asphalt parking lot, to installing a new deck, there are projects ranging from small to complex. Regardless of the scope of work, an organized plan will ensure success. Here are the steps to that success:

1. Identify The Problem
What are you trying to accomplish? Do you have a problem with roof leaks? If so, are they in every unit? Does the problem stem from an aging roof, or from possible construction defects? Accurately identify the problem before the solution.

2. Get Expert Advice
If the job is a large one, get expert advice. For example, roof leaks could lead to hasty shingle repairs rather than correcting inadequate caulking or flashing. A maintenance and repair schedule, based on the association's reserve study, can help in timing inspections and using experts ranging from architects to construction specialists.

3. Communicate with Owners and Residents
Owners and resident perception of the problem may differ from the board’s. Communication will unearth facts otherwise unknown, help identify the problem and the best solution. Consider surveying residents, holding an informational meeting, or sending notices to owners and residents depending on the size of the construction job. If a construction defect lawsuit is in the works, keep owners informed so that they know a resolution effort in the works.

4. Specify The Solution
Don't attempt to write your own specifications for larger jobs unless you are qualified to do so. Have qualified professionals develop specifications before requesting bids. Architects, attorneys, engineers, manufacturer’s representatives, and consultants are available at an hourly or contract rate for drafting specifications. Once written, make sure both the board and manager fully understand the specifications before beginning the bidding process.

5. Get Qualified Bids
For major work, get at least three bids from qualified contractors who have submitted proof of proper licensing, bonding and insurance. Check references, look at samples of projects completed, and interview the contractor.

Value your contractors' time. Reading specifications, attending pre-bid meetings and giving proposals takes a lot of effort. Don’t request bids for contracts that have already been awarded. And be up front with contractors if you only need a ballpark figure, or when work may not begin for another year.

6. Determine Administrative Needs
After accepting a proposal, set your time frame and then make sure there is adequate supervision for the job. That may mean hiring a consultant to supervise large jobs. Don’t expect the property manager to take on that duty unless it is part of the management contract. The on-site manager should not appointed unless there is ample time within the work day. A board member may be assigned the responsibility of checking completed work before the invoice is authorized for payment.

Whatever form of contract administration you decide upon, make sure that everyone involved knows who holds authority, to what degree, and what the lines of communication between the contractor, his employees, and the association will be.

7. Satisfy The Contractor's Needs
Once you've awarded the contract, consider that the association and the contractor are in a partnership. Constant communication is an important element in a problem free construction project.

Listen to the contractor and his employees when they tell you of potential problems, and work with them to find a solution. If an unforeseen problem arises, discuss options with the contractor and put change orders in writing. Treat the contractor fairly.

By following these steps, your community will successfully complete the most complex renovation projects with a minimal amount of disruption. This is truly the art of constructive construction. BACK

ABCs of Asphalt
Asphalt is the material of choice for most roads and parking lots. It’s a mix of about 92% stone aggregate and mineral filler combined with 8% asphalt binder. This combination allows it to stay in place and repel water. Because it stays dry, it has the strength to carry traffic loads and lasts a long time. It does, however, have drawbacks:

Poor resistance to the sun, salts and chemicals. Asphalt is a complex mix of thousands of chemicals with predominantly open chain molecules with a high degree of double bonding. What this means to the average mortal is that open chained molecules provide easy access for sun, salts and chemicals which breaks them down and destroys their binding and waterproofing properties. The visual indicator of this breakdown is the change of color from dark black/brown to gray.

Poor resistance to petrochemicals. Asphalt is the heaviest and final component of petroleum distillation. The distillation process separates the asphalt from other byproducts like gasoline and oil. Since these byproducts are similar in molecular structure, they easily dissolve chemicals in asphalt.

The drying process. As unprotected asphalt ages, the oils migrate to the surface and are burned off. As this continues, the pavement hardens and shrinks producing hairline cracking. Cracking allows water to penetrate the water repellent barrier to the ground below which, in turn, causes ground swelling and sinking which causes more damage to the asphalt. Advanced deterioration causes "alligatoring" (cracked surface area resembles an alligator’s back), heaving, sinking and disintegration.

Pros and cons of traffic. Major roads have an advantage over community streets and parking lots because of heavy traffic which continuously "kneads" the oxidized surface back into the pavement bringing up fresh material. After the asphalt binder is exhausted, major roads are either overlaid with fresh asphalt or the pavement is completely removed and reinstalled. Low traffic community roads do not receive the same traffic loads and must apply different maintenance techniques to preserve the asphalt.

So, what is the best way to protect asphalt pavement? Sealcoating or slurry coating is recommended. Sealcoating uses refined coal tar. Coal tar is a byproduct of coal being converted to coke in steel mills. Coal has different origins than petroleum so has different properties than asphalt. It has a much more stable molecular structure that is resistant to weather and chemicals. Coal tar is mixed with clay, mineral fillers and water to produce an emulsion or slurry which is easily applied to the asphalt. The mineral fillers give it durability. The coating is both flexible and protects against weather, sun and chemicals.

So, when should a sealcoat be applied? Since asphalt begins to oxidize immediately after installation, it is recommended that sealcoating be applied when the asphalt is new. Thereafter, recoating should occur about every five years (sooner in high traffic areas). Major cracks should be sealed and spot pavement repairs made before each sealcoat application.

If sealcoating is done as recommended, the life of the pavement can be extended up to 300%. It also leaves a satin black finish which adds to the beauty and value of the property. Clearly, asphalt maintenance should be a high priority in every community association. Do your community a favor and contact a qualified paving contractor today for an evaluation. BACK

Paint Failure Glossary
Understanding the primary causes of paint failures will help prevent future paint problems. The primary causes of paint failures are moisture, inadequate surface prep, the improper application of paints, the sun, and weathering. Some of the more common paint failures are listed below in alphabetical order with recommendations for their prevention.

Alligatoring is cracked paint that resembles alligator skin, and is generally found on wood surfaces. It occurs when paint can not adhere to a glossy surface, when a second coat of paint is applied over an inadequately dried first coat of paint, weather aging, excessive coats of paint, or when the finish coat expands and contracts at a greater extent that any underlying coats. Paint must be completely removed when alligatoring has occurred to ensure an even and uniform finish. Wood surfaces should be primed with a top quality alkyd primer and acrylic latex finish.

Bleeding is an unsightly surface discoloration commonly found on exterior wood surfaces and hardboard siding, ceilings, repainted wallpaper, or when light colored paint is applied over dark colored paint. The causes of bleeding are moisture and water soluble dyes located within wood surfaces and wallpaper, and inadequate priming of surfaces. Bleeding on hardboard siding is caused by wax.

The removal of any excessive water source is essential before any surface preparation can be completed. Exterior wood surfaces should be primed with top quality alkyd based primers and finished with top quality acrylic latex paints. Interior surfaces should be primed with either a top quality alkyd based or acrylic latex based stain blocking primer, and finished with a top quality acrylic latex finish paint.

Blistering results when fresh paint is applied in direct sunlight which creates subsurface evaporation and moisture pressure. This is more common with dark or dramatic colors because they, in addition to surfaces, absorb heat. Heat blistering will have a layer of paint under the blister if the surface is being repainted. Trapped moisture in walls or behind surfaces will eventually try to escape through painted surfaces, also causing blistering. Moisture blistering will reveal a bare surface under the blister. Blistering surfaces should be scraped and sanded smooth, primed with a top quality alkyd or acrylic latex primer, and finished with a top quality acrylic latex finish paint. If moisture blistering occurs on a repainted surface, spot priming of bare spots will be necessary to ensure a uniform and even finish before the final priming and painting is completed.

Chalking is the weathered powder found on exterior painted surfaces and is normal. However, premature chalking can be caused by inadequate priming or thin paint. Homeowners should be aware that chalking on siding located above masonry will run during rainy weather causing the masonry to stain. Once a chalked surfaced is pressured washed clean and prepared for painting, one coat of a top quality alkyd primer and one coat of a top quality acrylic latex finish paint is highly recommended for the prevention of future excess chalking.

Checking is an early form of cracking and occurs when paint begins to loose elasticity, forming narrow breaks on the painted surface. These breaks later swell and become cracks. Checking and cracking are found on wood surfaces with multiple layers of paint, or plywood. Checked or cracked paint should be completely removed from surfaces before repainting. Properly prepared wood surfaces should be primed with a top quality alkyd primer and finished with a top quality acrylic latex finish paint.

Efflorescence is a white salty substance that forms on masonry and plaster due to moisture migrating through the surface. If left untreated for long periods of time, it will become hard and crusty. Any source of excessive moisture must be eliminated and the surface must be cleaned by scraping or wire brushing, and surfaces must be repaired where applicable before priming and painting. Surfaces can be painted with top quality alkyd or acrylic latex based primers and paints that are alkaline resistant. BACK

Out Damn Spot!: Rx for Oil Spots
One of the most common problems that every association has is oil spots on the streets or and parking lots. It is easy to remove them. First, wipe up the excess oil on the surface. Then, use the magic formula:

Take paint thinner and pour it on the spot, saturating it to make an oily residue. The next step is to spread kitty litter [you can also use baking soda, corn meal or dry sand] over it so that there a nice layer over the oil spot. Leave it there overnight, sweep it up, and the oil spot will be gone. Sometimes you have to do it twice, but usually it will work the first time. If you still have a spot there, put a little liquid laundry bleach on top of it. That will probably take care of it. BACK

Barkdust: Landscaper’s Friend
Barkdust is an important component of first class landscaping. It offers visual appeal, promotes market value, provides a pleasant woodsy aroma and is an effective weed control. The weed control aspect cannot be understated because that translates into money savings: The less time the landscaper spends pulling weeds, the lower the cost to the association.

There are several varieties of barkdust used in the Northwest. Medium Fresh Fir is reddish brown in color and is by far the most popular. Also popular is Hemlock which is darker in color and sliverless, although more expensive. Cedar chips are often used in playground areas and dog runs and provide an effective and durable cushion material.

A 2" deep base of barkdust generally lasts 2-3 years. Wind and sun will eventually deplete it but adding another 1" each year will renew it nicely giving the grounds a well maintained look. Barkdust can be applied professionally by blowing, by hand or a combination of both. With blowing, it is important to uncover small plants and flowers following installation.

Barkdust is purchased by the "unit", which measures 7.4 cubic yards. A unit covers about 1000 square feet of area 2" deep. If you know the total area to be covered, you can easily compute the total units it will take. Barkdust is truly a valuable addition to your landscaping. Invest in some today. BACK

Chimney Cleaning
The National Fire Protection Association advises, "Chimneys, fireplaces, and vents shall be inspected at least once a year for soundness, freedom from deposits, and correct clearances. Cleaning, maintenance, and repairs shall be done if necessary." The fact that you don't use your chimney much doesn’t change the need: animals may build nests in the flue or there may be other types of deterioration that could make the chimney unsafe to use.

The Chimney Safety Institute of America recommends that open masonry fireplaces should be cleaned at 1/4" of sooty buildup, and sooner if there is any glaze present in the system. Factory-built fireplaces should be cleaned when any appreciable buildup occurs. This is considered to be enough fuel buildup to cause a chimney fire capable of damaging the chimney or spreading to the home. BACK

Benefits of Roof Maintenance
A good roof is more than a component...it’s essential. Roofing professionals generally agree that a good roof requires proper design, quality materials, and quality application in order to perform successfully. Yet once the roof is installed, nothing is more critical to its long-term performance than establishing a program of regular inspections and proper maintenance. The National Roofing Contractors Association (NRCA) believes that the most effective way to keep a roof performing for a long period of time is to have a maintenance program with a professional roofing contractor. The contractor:

• Understands local building practices.
• Can recommend the roof systems best suited for the building.
• Has an experienced crew.
• Can respond quickly to problems.

Long-term warranties offered by many roofing material manufacturers do not guarantee satisfactory roof performance. Warranties often contain provisions which significantly limit the warranty and the consumer's remedies in the event that problems develop or damage occurs to the roof system. A maintenance program addresses leaks before they occur, allows for a planned program of capital expenditures and improves response time. (Warranty claims can drag on while the problem is sorted out)..

Consider adding this invaluable service to extend the life of your roofs and lower overall costs. Discuss a roof maintenance program with a reputable local roofing contractor. Information provided by National Roofing Contractors Association. BACK

Consumer Alert: EIFS
On March 22, 1999, Dateline NBC ran a story on a building product called "EIFS" (pronounced "eefs" or "eefis"). EIFS stands for Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems or more commonly known as "synthetic stucco". EIFS combines two components to produce a cladding system: The "Exterior Insulation" is a foam board which is attached to the exterior sheathing and serves as an exterior insulating layer. Over this foam board is applied a "Finishing System" of synthetic base-coat material embedded in a fiberglass mesh. On top of the base coat is applied one or more "finish coats" which gives it a stucco-like appearance.

EIFS was developed in Europe after World War II to repair war-ravaged buildings. EIFS was used successfully as a cost effective repair alternative on concrete and masonry buildings. In 1969, it was introduced in the U.S. largely in commercial and military applications. EIFS began making inroads into the residential construction industry in the mid 1980's. Today, EIFS accounts for 17% of the commercial exterior finish market and 4% of the residential market. Installations in the residential market are increasing 12-18% a year.

The Problem No engineering changes were made to EIFS to allow for differences between masonry and steel construction versus wood framed construction before it was introduced to the residential market. Homes clad with EIFS have a tendency to retain moisture between the sheathing of the home and the finish system. Retained moisture that remains in contact with the structure and sheathing for prolonged periods promotes dryrot. Left unchecked, it can severely damage the structural components of the home which provides an open invitation to termites and other wood boring insects. Inordinately high levels of mold growth can occur which has negative health effects.

EIFS homes cannot be made waterproof with caulking as all caulk joints fail. Since windows are designed to be only water-resistant, some water will always find a way in. When it can't get out, there is a problem. Inadequate roof flashing details also allow water intrusion.

EIFS homes built prior to 1997 with what is known as "barrier" EIFS have a high probability of moisture intrusion problems. Inspections done in North Carolina indicated that more than 90% of new EIFS homes were affected. Some of them were no more than 6 weeks old. Those built since 1997 may have a reduced chance of moisture intrusion since they may have "drainable" or "water-managed" systems but they are not immune to the problem.

Most stucco-type homes built in the last ten years have EIFS. A quick way to check is to knock on the wall with your knuckles and press on it with your fingertips. If you hear a hollow sound when you knock and the wall feels softer than concrete you probably have EIFS. If the wall sounds very solid and feels as hard as concrete you may have traditional (hard coat) stucco.

There are few visual clues of the moisture problem since it is hidden behind the walls. Moisture detection devices inserted into wall cavities can, however, detect higher than normal moisture concentration. The statute of limitations (time frame in which you must act to protect your rights) varies from state to state. Moreover, most EIFS warranties require written notice within a short time of its discovery. If your home has EIFS, consider a certified inspection service as soon as possible. BACK